Category Archives: Volkswagen

How To: Replacing Headlight Bulb in a Mk7 Golf

How To: Replacing Headlight Bulb in a Mk7 Golf

Philips has produced a number of useful step-by-step lighting fitment guides. In the first of the series, the lighting specialist walks us through the process on a VW Golf Mk7.

When it comes to changing headlights, cars vary hugely in complexity. For some vehicles, it’s relatively simple to open the bonnet and get to the back of the headlight, remove the old bulb and replace it with a new one. On others, it can be an altogether more fiddly and time-consuming process. To help technicians out, Philips has produced a number of useful step-by-step lighting fitment guides. In the first of the series, the lighting specialist walks us through the process on a VW Golf VII.

The Philips Automotive Lighting Europe YouTube Channel offers a range of both technical instructional videos and short product information films to make it easier for workshop technicians to change the bulbs on the most popular cars on the road. The range of bulbs on offer from the company is comprehensive and, as well as a full selection of replacement and upgrade Halogen and HID Xenon replacement bulbs, it also includes LED lighting options for various vehicle applications.

You also need the right tools for changing the bulb, so Philips offers a handy bulb fitting kit that includes Magill scissors that enable mechanics to reach into the tight areas of a vehicle to twist the bulbs out without getting their hands dirty. Also included is a flexible moveable mirror that allows you to see the hard to reach areas.

Volkswagen Golf VII – step-by- step guide

First, open the hood and secure it. Use the torx screwdriver to unscrew the three screws on the metal retainer bar, and then use the screwdriver to unscrew the four screws of the plastic cover of the cooling system. Now remove the ventilation grill.

The next task is to unscrew the headlight unit. Use a bigger diameter for the two screws on the back, and unplug the connector from the headlight unit. To replace the right side bulb, turn the wheel to the left, unscrew the mud guard, lift it up, and then use the socket wrench to unscrew the remaining screws at the back of the headlamp. Gently pull the headlight unit out, before removing the cover by turning it anti-clockwise. Turn the socket holder anti-clockwise to remove the bulb, and then pull the bulb out from the socket holder. Plug the new bulb into the socket holder, put it back inside the headlight in its original position, and then replace the cover. Gently replace the headlight unit and screw into place.

Repeat the procedure for the other headlight, and then reattach the ventilation grill and screw it in. Do the same for the metal retainer. Finally, close the hood.

Timing Belt Replacement on Mk7 Golf 1.0 TSI

Out of Touch, Out of Time – Tips on Timing Belt Replacement on the Mk7 Golf 1.0 TSI.

In this article, our friends over at Gates explain to us why the VW 1.0TSI range has it’s own unique challenges.

VW added the 1L three-cylinder petrol engine to its flagship Golf range in 2015. It’s also a feature of many other VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda models.

The new engine featured non-round pulleys in the Synchronous Belt Drive System (SBDS). The combination helped make significant contributions towards lower overall weights, quieter engines, reduced CO2 emissions and improved driving dynamics.

Now that the new car warranty periods have started to expire, car owners are seeking fresh providers of service and general maintenance work. This means these models are beginning to roll through the doors of many independent garages.

Replacing the timing belts presents new challenges for drive systems specialists. For many, it’s a first encounter with non-round pulleys. For all, it’s a procedure that must not be attempted without the correct set of tools.

Tools required and points to note

As the drive system positioning of the non- round pulleys is extremely important, specific tools are vital to the success of the belt replacement procedure. The Gates timing tool kit (GAT 5140) is required to complete this job correctly. An appropriate camshaft pulley holding tool is required (for example, GAT4844). A crankshaft holding tool is also essential (for example, GAT 5169). When replacing the timing belt, it is good workshop practice to replace the associated metal components at the same time. Gates PowerGrip Kits include belts as well as any appropriate tensioners and idlers.

The water pump is driven by a separate small timing belt without a tensioner. Gates supplies separate belt kits for both the timing belt and the water pump. Note that not all timing belts have a synchronising function.

Twelve-step procedure

1. The first step is to put the engine’s first cylinder at top dead centre (TDC), then lock the crankshaft (locking pin on the side) and the camshaft at the rear.

2. Holding the pulleys in place, loosen the camshaft pulley bolts (right bolt behind plug). Loosen the exhaust camshaft pulley (left) from the conical axle; loosen the belt tensioner pulley bolt while holding the tensioner in place; rotate anti-clockwise (till the retaining lug is situated at the bottom of the slotted hole).

3. Remove the belt.

4. Replace the tensioner and the idler and fit the camshaft pulley locking tool. This will secure the location of the two camshaft pulleys. It is important that they remain in the exact position at which their non-roundness will work to the advantage of the engine (otherwise they will increase belt tension fluctuation rather than reduce it). Note that the dots on both pulleys (at +/- 3 and 9 o’clock (and 12 o’clock) will not line up perfectly.

5. Install the new belt (crankshaft, tensioner, camshafts and idler). Ensure that it is taut on the left side.

6. Remove the little camshaft pulley locking tool. Rotate the tensioner clockwise. The pointer must be 10mm past the notch (window).

7. Bring the pointer back to the middle of the window and torque the bolt to 25Nm.

8. Holding the camshaft bolts in place, lock them to 50Nm. Holding the bolts is a crucial part of the procedure. Install the crankshaft Micro-V pulley. Set a torque of 150Nm and then turn it through another 180 ̊ using the crankshaft holding tool.

9. Remove the locking tools. Rotate the engine, by hand, through two complete revolutions to TDC. Reinstall the locking tools (crankshaft and rear camshaft).

10. If reinstalling the tools proves impossible, restart the procedure from step 1.

11. If this does prove feasible, hold the camshaft sprockets in place and torque a further 90 ̊.

12. Bring the tensioner pointer back to the middle of the notch (25Nm).

Non-round benefits

The non-round pulley design is, initially, difficult to spot. It only becomes obvious when slowly rotating the loosened pulley with your finger or rolling it across a flat surface. The design is vital to the ‘belt dynamic tension optimisation’ process, which is the key to the high performance and low emission qualities of this particular three- cylinder engine. During the intake or suction phase, the piston is moving down, while at the next stroke (compression), it compresses the mixture of air and fuel.

This is followed by strokes three and four – combustion and exhaust. These different strokes cause significant belt tension variation throughout the combustion cycle. This tension variation is countered by means of the non-round pulley design, which delivers a defined amplitude and phasing. The result: optimised belt tension.

How to Fit a Timing Belt on a Volkswagen Beetle

 In this month’s article, Schaeffler replace the timing belt and water pump on a 2008 Volkswagen Beetle 1.9 TDI (BSW engine) that has covered just over 66,000 miles.

Volkswagen released the new Beetle in 1997. Prior to that, two concept cars had been designed and a strong demand had been noticed for a new Beetle, which went into production and was based on a Golf platform. Assembly took place in Mexico and it was available in petrol and diesel, with two body types; coupe and convertible.

This engine has been identified as an interference type, so in the event of a timing belt failure, the likelihood of engine damage is extremely high. It is always important to install a new timing belt system on an engine at ambient room temperature. Always adhere to turning the engine in direction of rotation unless otherwise advised by the installation instructions. Recommended torque values should always be used. It is also recommended that all the tensioners, idlers and fixings are replaced at the same time as the timing belt.

For safety reasons, it is best practice to disconnect the battery earth lead. The vehicle may also be fitted with locking wheel bolts, so make sure the key is available before starting the repair.

For this repair, the workshop equipment used was a two-post ramp, crank and camshaft locking tools, two pin tensioner wrench, engine support and a stud extractor.

All workshop repair information and repair times are available from

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, start by removing the engine cover, then remove the top intercooler hose, coolant expansion tank, fuel filter and fuel filter mounting bracket (see below).

Remove the tension from the auxiliary drive belt and lock the tensioner with a pin (see below), remove the auxiliary drive belt, check the auxiliary drive belt for wear and cracking/perishing and replace if required. Also, check the Over Running Alternator Pulley (OAP) for correct operation and then remove the auxiliary belt tensioner.

Raise the ramp, remove the o/s/f wheel, the lower intercooler hose, the engine under tray and then the o/s/f wheel arch liner, o/s lower engine cover (see below), and lastly remove the metal mounting bracket and the crankshaft front pulley. At this point, we need to support the engine as the engine mounting needs to be removed. This can be done with either an engine brace beam, a support that is located on the front sub-frame or, in this instance, we supported the engine with an axle stand, as most of the work is carried out from above.

Support the engine, then remove the engine mount and disconnect the mounting bracket from the engine block. This cannot be removed as there is not enough clearance, but can be manoeuvred to allow belt replacement. Now remove the upper timing belt cover, and then with access through the o/s/f wheel arch, take off the two lower timing belt covers, rotate the engine in a clockwise direction and align the timing marks. Then insert locking tools into the crankshaft (see below), and the camshaft (see below).

Once the cam and crank have been locked, slacken the tensioner nut, remove the tension from the belt and then take out the timing belt and the tensioner. A crucial point of this repair is to replace the studs for the tensioner and the idler (see below). They were removed easily with a socket type stud extractor and replaced and torqued with the same stud tool (the torque procedure of these studs is very important, so always refer to the latest information).

Now take out the water pump by removing the three retaining bolts and easing the pump out of the engine block, and then drain the engine coolant into a tray placed under the vehicle. Once drained, ensure the mounting and sealing faces for the pump are clean and dry, install the new water pump and tighten to the manufacturer’s specification. Remove and dry any remaining coolant in the timing belt area and fit the new idler and tensioner.

Using a counter-hold tool, slacken the three retaining bolts on the camshaft pulley and rotate the camshaft pulley in a clockwise direction until it is against its stops (see below). Now fit the new timing belt, starting on the crank pulley, then the idler, tensioner, camshaft pulley, and finishing off at the water pump.

LuK GearBOX repair solution for VW 02T transmission

LuK GearBOX repair solution for VW 02T transmission

You won’t miss a thing with the LuK GearBOX. Enabling you to perform transmission repairs on your own. Each LuK GearBOX repair solution has been developed for a specific transmission type and contains all the necessary components for a professional repair. Here you see the repair of the VW 02T transmission with the help of the LuK GearBOX.

How to replace a timing belt on a VW Polo

Recommended Labour Time: 3 HOURS
INA Part Number: 530008910

For this repair we used a two-post ramp, an engine support bridge and the special timing belt locking tools for the camshaft. If the vehicle is fitted with alloy wheels then ensure that the wheel nut locking tool is available before undertaking the repair. For safety disconnect the earth lead from the battery and stow.

Remove the engine cover and install the engine support bridge to take the weight of the engine, as the upper engine mount must be removed. Lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height. Remove the under-tray and the off-side front wheel and wheel arch liners.

Remove the accessory drive belt to gain access to the timing belt system. It is good practice to change the belt and tensioner and also check if the alternator is installed with an Overriding Alternator Pulley (OAP); if this is overlooked then it could potentially cause damage in a short amount of time.

At this point you can remove the upper timing belt cover and proceed to rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until TDC is reached. Then insert the camshaft locking tool. It is difficult to see the markings on the crank pulley but a suitable light should be enough to help you. If the locking tool can’t be inserted easily then rotate the engine 360˚ until it’s possible to install the tool.

Remove the engine support assembly and bracket. Proceed to remove the crankshaft pulley and re-fit the crankshaft pulley bolt with two washers. Ensure the crankshaft is at TDC by checking the chamfered tooth is in line with the mark on the engine and remove the lower part of the timing belt protection covers. You’re then ready to remove the two timing belts – the main timing belt first and then the smaller belt that is installed on the camshaft pulleys.

To remove the larger timing belt you have to remove the camshaft locking tools, taking care not to disrupt the timing of the system. It is advised to make a small painted mark on the camshaft gears before you remove the locking tool to ensure the timing is not altered. Unscrew the tensioner fixing bolt and rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise before removing the belt. Follow this by removing the tensioner and idler pulleys. The same process is then required for the smaller belt, after which you should re-install the camshaft locking tool.

Before you start the installation, check that the engine remains in TDC. Make sure the pin on the crankshaft pulley is in line with the mark on the engine and that the locking tool is inserted correctly and the painted marks are aligned. It is critical that this is correct as engine timing and synchronisation will be off and will cause problems and potential engine damage.

Installation of the camshaft-to-camshaft is first. Proceed to fit the belt onto the exhaust cam and then onto the inlet cam pulley with the loose part of the belt on the lower side, as the tensioner will apply the force at this position. Ensure that the adjustment plate is at the 6 o’clock position and the locating lug is inserted into the hole on the engine.

Slightly tighten the tensioner bolt and rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise until the pointer becomes aligned with the locator lug; it is a little difficult to see so using a mirror should make life a easier. When you’ve reached this position tighten the tensioner bolt to 20Nm.

Install the tensioner for the main timing belt and rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise until the Allen key is at the 10 o’clock position before slightly tightening the bolt. It is critical to ensure the correct position of the base plate; if it is not located so that the nut on the engine is inside the baseplate it will cause the tensioner to function in either a low or high tension value, causing the tensioner bolt to break; this will likely result in engine damage.

Carefully remove the camshaft locking tool and install the belt in the following order:

1. Water Pump
2. Tensioner
3. Crankshaft sprocket
4. Large idler pulley
5. Camshaft sprocket

At this point you should re-install the camshaft locking tools and then finally install the belt onto the final idler pulley.

Tighten the belt by rotating the tensioner in a clockwise direction so the pointer is aligned with the recess on the base plate and then tighten the tensioner bolt to 20Nm.

Remove the locking tools and rotate the engine two turns in the direction of engine rotation to achieve TDC. Install the camshaft locking tools and, if they install easily, the tensioning procedure is complete. If not then the tensioning procedure must be repeated form the beginning.

Re-install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Root Cause of Broken VW Tensioners – A Technical Tip from Gates

On models equipped with the Gates 38192 Tensioner assembly, it is possible that excessive tensioner movement or a broken tensioner assembly may be observed as illustrated below.


This type of failure is the result of severe vibrations in the accessory belt drive system. While a broken tensioner is the result, the root cause often lies elsewhere in the system. These vehicles came from the factory with an Overrunning Alternator Decoupler Pulley. OAD Pulleys are engineered to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness in the accessory belt drive system while reducing belt tension. A reduction in belt tension will lead to an increased lifecycle of the accessories and improved gas mileage. However, OAD Pulleys are wear items and will eventually fail. If left unchecked, a failed OAD Pulley will result in excessive and abnormal vibrations in the belt drive system, which may eventually lead to the catastrophic tensioner failure pictured above.

Another often overlooked cause of the broken tensioner seen above is the result of incorrect servicing of the OAD Pulley. If an OAD Pulley has been mistakenly replaced with a One Way Clutch Pulley or a Solid Pulley, the belt tensioner is forced to absorb excessive and irregular vibrations that otherwise would not exist.

Ultimately, both of these scenarios will result in the hydraulic strut attempting to compensate for the additional vibrations in the belt drive system. Unfortunately, the tensioner is not designed to withstand these conditions, and may eventually break as pictured above. Gates recommends replacing the ADP whenever the 38192 tensioner is replaced.

Audi & Volkswagen Timing Belt Drive Service Information – A Technical Tip from Gates

Audi and Volkswagen Service Information 

Due to durability issues with the original OE synchronous drive system, the manufacturer has reengineered the drive to achieve a more reliable setup that provides worry free performance. Refitting the synchronous drive with the reengineered component is the recommended service procedure for these vehicles. Gates Timing Component Kits and Timing Component Kits with Water Pump offer the reengineered parts necessary to do the complete job, including the redesigned hydraulic strut tensioner (TCK317 + TCKWP317).

Please be aware that the updated drive system design requires a different timing belt. Those vehicles equipped with the old design will have a 152 tooth timing belt (T291). The updated design makes use of a 153 tooth belt (T317). This 153 tooth belt combined with the components contained in a Gates timing component kit will set the drive in the current OE approved configuration.

The OE system that is no longer available from the manufacturer is illustrated in Fig #1. The updated system, contained in Gates TCK317 and TCKWP317, which includes the redesigned hydraulic actuator (Gates T43066), tensioning roller (Gates T43065) and 153 Tooth timing belt (Gates T317) is illustrated in FIG #2.

screen-shot-2016-11-02-at-15-19-53Please note if you are removing a system that has been updated, there could be a difference in the spacer that is included with the pulley. The one that is included in the TCK317 kit has a 6mm thick spacer; the other which is only available from the OE is 3mm thick. These are not interchangeable on the drive. Incorrect distance will cause premature belt and drive system failure.

Always double check the component you are removing. You may encounter a difference in spacer thickness of the tensioner pulley. If the spacer currently on the vehicle is 3mm, then it will need to be obtained from the OE. If the spacer is 6mm it will be supplied in the Gates TCK317 or TCKWP317. This will guarantee proper system alignment.













Air Filter Fitment Tips

VW Golf and Polo 1.2 & 1.4L models; How to change the air filter

The MANN+HUMMEL produced OE air filter housing for 1.2L and 1.4L VW Golf and Polo models contains the MANN-FILTER air filter C 27 009. The air filter housing features an innovative radial seal and hidden screws that are inserted through the filter element itself. Replacement of the filter can be carried out by using the following steps:

1. The upper part of the housing is fastened to the lower part by four clips (a) and two screws (b).

2. Filter element C 27 009 can then be changed as follows: 2

a) Remove the hose (2) for the crankcase.

b) Pull up the whole housing (1) to remove it from the ball pins.

c) Release the hose clips (3) and (4) and pull out the air hoses.

d) The housing (1) can now be completely disassembled. To open the housing, release the four clips and loosen the two screws between the upper and lower parts of the housing.

Housing – view from below

e) Carefully remove the used filter, and replace with a new C 27 009, ensuring the filter is properly located in the housing.

f) Reverse the procedure above to reassemble.

3. Make sure you also observe the maintenance instructions of the VM. The sealing integrity of C 27 009 inside the housing is achieved by the OE approved radial seal design. The sealing contour ensures optimum sealing, preventing contaminant bypassing the seal and entering the engine.

Timing Belt Fitting Tips: VW Golf

1.6 TDI Model; Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement Guide

The Volkswagen Golf 1.6 TDI is a very popular car on today’s roads, so it’s highly likely that your workshop will receive a visit from one in the near future. Although the car we’ve featured in this tutorial wasn’t due a replacement based on its mileage, it is four years old and the manufacturer recommends a replacement every four years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

For this repair we used a INA timing belt kit with water pump, which contains everything required for the job. The engine had been identified as an interference type engine, so in the event of the timing belt
failing, the likelihood of engine damage is extremely high. In terms of workshop equipment, you’ll need a two-post ramp, engine support, timing belt locking tools and a pulley counter hold tool.

Engine rotation

When replacing a timing belt, the engine needs to be at an ambient temperature to ensure the correct tension is achieved. Always rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise advised) and it is recommended that all the tensioners, idlers and fixings are replaced and torqued as per the manufacturer’s instruction.

When initially opening the bonnet, the timing belt system may look a little tricky to change, but with a little know-how and the appropriate tools it will prove to be an ideal repair for an independent garage.

Place the car on the ramp and raise, remove the engine under-tray, then the O/S/F wheel and lastly the O/S/F lower wheel arch liner (see Fig 1).

Fig 1.

Now lower the car and remove the engine cover; we now need to gain access to the engine mounting, so remove the fixings for the diesel filter, washer bottle filler, coolant expansion tank and the DPF pressure sensor bracket, unclip the hoses as required and then place on top of the engine.

Now remove the upper timing belt cover by releasing the three retaining clips and then raise the car. We now need to remove the crankshaft pulley; loosen the four spline bolts and then remove the auxiliary drive belt by rotating the tensioner in a clockwise direction – this can be locked in the untensioned position with a 3mm pin. Now remove the auxiliary belt and the four spline bolts from the crankshaft pulley before removing the pulley.

Detach the EGR cooler metal hose from the engine mount by removing the retaining nut and retaining bolt. The lower timing belt cover can now be removed. Then remove the five torx bolts and the lower timing belt cover.

Locking tool

Rotate the engine and align the timing marks; the crankshaft timing mark is a line on the crankshaft timing belt pulley that aligns with the pointer on the locking tool (see Fig 2) and the locking tool pin locates in a socket.

Fig 2.

Now lock the camshaft by means of a locking pin; the hole is located on and through the camshaft pulley (see Fig 3).

Fig 3.

Lock the fuel pump with a locking pin in the location lug (see Fig 4), and slacken the three camshaft pulley bolts and the three high pressure fuel pump pulley bolts (a counter hold tool may be required so as not to strain the locking tools).

Fig 4.

Support the engine by means of a beam or an under vehicle support (see Fig 5), and remove the engine mounting assembly.

Fig 5.

The engine may need to be raised and lowered slightly to remove the mounting support bolts, noting that the mounting support can’t be removed from the engine bay and that it can be moved to give clearance to enable the tensioner to be changed. Ensure the crankshaft, camshaft and high pressure fuel pump are locked correctly and then slacken the timing belt tensioner nut before releasing the tension on the timing belt and removing the timing belt from the engine.

Remove the timing belt tensioner and replace the tensioner stud. There are many tools on the market to remove studs but, in this instance, we locked two nuts together on the stud and withdrew the stud. We then used the same method to fit the new tensioner stud (before torqueing) and we also followed this process for the idler stud.

At this point of the repair we replaced the water pump and slackened the cap on the coolant expansion tank to remove any pressure. Now remove the three bolts from the water pump body and remove the water pump. Clean the mating face and wipe away any coolant that could contaminate the new timing belt or bearings. Then fit the new water pump and torque the bolts.

Refill the cooling system with the correct coolant. Ensure the timing belt area is clean and dry, before replacing the idlers and torqueing to the manufacturer’s specification. Fit the new timing belt tensioner (this may be a slightly different design to the original one) and the new nut, but do not tighten. Rotate the camshaft and high pressure fuel pump pulleys fully clockwise on their elongated holes, ensuring the pulleys are free to rotate but not tip.

New belt

Fit the new timing belt, starting at the crankshaft pulley and working up towards the top of the engine, finishing off at the camshaft pulley. Tension the timing belt tensioner, making sure you align the pointer to the notch, and torque the nut. Using the pulley counter hold tool, pull on the camshaft pulley in an anti-clockwise direction, keeping the timing belt under tension. Now tighten the camshaft and high pressure fuel pump pulley bolts and torque to the manufacturer’s specification.

Remove the locking pins and crankshaft locking tool and rotate the engine two complete revolutions. Refit the crankshaft locking tool and the locking pins to ensure the timing and tension is correct. Now refit all the components, remembering that this involves the reverse sequence of the removal process.

Finally, run up the engine. We had to ensure the coolant level was correct (due to the coolant pump being changed) and so we ran it until the coolant fan operated.

How to fit a clutch on a Volkswagen Tiguan

A clutch fitment guide for the 4Motion 2.0TDI model, engine code CBBB, from Schaffler Automotive Aftermarket (UK).

The Volkswagen Tiguan is a popular compact crossover vehicle (CUV) for families and also company vehicles, with a good choice of engines and specifications available.

Recommended labour time: 6 hours. LuK parts fitted: 415068510 (DMF), 411013310 (DMF bolts), 624339533 (clutch kit).

The first generation was launched in 2007 and has seen some 2.7m vehicles produced. With the second generation launched this year, and the popularity of the CUV sector on the rise, your workshop is likely to receive a visit from a Tiguan in the near future.

In this month’s clinic we’re taking a closer look at how to replace the clutch, flywheel and CSC on the 2.0tdi 4motion variant. The replacement of the clutch was undertaken using a two-post ramp, two transmission jacks and an engine bridge tool. The only special tool needed is a universal alignment tool for the clutch driven plate.


The repair starts from under the bonnet. Disconnect the battery terminals and stow safely. Remove the intake pipe and the air filter housing before removing the battery and battery tray to expose the top of the gear box. Remove the white plastic locking clip (Fig 1) that holds in place the reverse gear lever and cable and detach from its position. Remove the locking nut from the gear selector cable and remove this from its keyway stub (Fig 2). Unbolt the selector cable mount and stow safely away from the working area.


Remove the retaining clip that holds the hydraulic line into the clutch master cylinder (Fig 3) and disconnect the line and blank off; in this case we held the line vertically and blanked off using a plastic cap. You could also clamp the line with a hose clamp and then disconnect the pipe. Stow the hydraulic line safely and make sure you DO NOT operate the clutch pedal.


Remove the top two bell housing bolts and remove the upper starter motor bolt. Disconnect the electrical connector from the starter motor by pulling the red tab back slightly (Fig 4) to unlock the connector, allowing it to ease off from its position. Stow the cable safely and then unclip the plastic cover over the main power cable to the starter and unbolt the cable and stow. Disconnect the reverse light switch and remove the earth cable from the gearbox. Remove the two bolts that hold a plastic support bracket for the wiring loom and the starter motor in place. Now remove both parts.


Engine bridge
Install the engine bridge and remove the top gearbox mount. Raise the vehicle and remove the under tray. Then remove both front wheels and partly remove the left wheel arch liner. Now drain the gearbox oil before disconnecting the oil level/temperature sensor plug and stowing. Remove the engine/gearbox stabiliser arm bracket and then remove the stabiliser arm (Fig 5).fig5-1

Remove both driveshaft bolts and remove the bolts on both sides from the wishbones; disconnect them from the stub axles. In our case we decided not to remove the prop shaft, exhaust and transfer box, but we did remove both drive shafts and the subframe as this gives plenty of room to disconnect the gearbox from the engine. The O/S drive shaft should be unbolted from the flange on the transfer box.
Unbolt the steering rack and anti-roll bar and disconnect the wiring harness from the subframe. Remove the six bolts securing the subframe in place and, using a transmission jack for support, carefully lower the subframe. Remember to remove the 6mm Allen key bolt through the transfer box (Fig 6) as you will not separate the gearbox from the engine.

Support the gearbox with a transmission jack and then remove the remaining bell housing bolts. Carefully separate the gearbox from the engine – it will have to be slightly lowered on the transmission jack and pulled into the wheel arch a little, but you should have just enough clearance to lower the gearbox to the floor.


With the clutch removed, check the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) for signs of heat stress and evidence of grease loss. The DMF should also be tested for freeplay and rock between the primary and secondary masses – LuK tool number 400 0080 10 is specifically designed for this purpose on all LuK manufactured DMFs. Full instructions and tolerance data for all LuK DMFs are contained on a CD which comes with this special tool.

Clean the first motion shaft splines and any debris from the bell housing (especially important when a release bearing has failed). It’s important to ensure that the release bearing is always replaced if the clutch and/or DMF are worn out. Put a small dab of high melting point grease (not a copper-based product) on the first motion shaft splines and make sure the new driven plate slides freely back and forth. This not only spreads the grease evenly but also makes sure you have the correct kit.

Wipe any excess grease off the shaft and driven plate hub. Using a universal alignment tool and checking the driven plate is the correct way round (note “Getriebe Seite” is German for “Gearbox Side”) the clutch can be bolted to the flywheel evenly and sequentially.

Before fitting the gearbox, make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged. Refit any that have become dislodged and then refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured before lowering the jack. Refitting is the reverse of the removal.