Category Archives: Renault

Renault Clio Sport 172 / 182 Brake Disc Fitment – Apec Bulletin

Please be aware that when changing the rear discs on the Renault Clio Sport 172 / 182 01-05, there are spacers that sit behind the Brake Discs on the rear stub axle. When removing the used discs please ensure that you check to see whether the spacer has remained in place and has not come off with the used disc, as this is required for the fitment of the new discs.

NB: The spacers are not supplied with the Brake Discs.

Failure to refit these spacers will result in premature bearing failure and possible damage to the rear stub axles.


New spacers are available from Renault Main Dealers only. Deflector C2 – OE Number 60 00 073 518


How to Replace a Double Clutch on a Renault Scenic III

In this article we’re replacing the double clutch assembly on a Renault Scenic III, fitted with Renault’s Efficient Double Clutch (EDC) gearbox; this is fitted to Renault’s 1.5 dCI engine.
Double clutch transmissions are becoming more popular on modern day cars and, although this type of job would usually be referred to the main dealer or a gearbox specialist, with some guidance and a short training course from LuK, the independent workshop is very capable of carrying out this repair.

The Renault Scenic I was launched in 1996 as a compact multi-purpose vehicle that was based on the Renault Mégane. The Scenic I ran from 1996-2003, Scenic II from 2003-2009, Scenic III from 2009-present and, in 2016, the Scenic IV was revealed at the Geneva motor show. Renault launched its
EDC gearbox in 2010 and today we see it used on the majority of its models.

Two into one
At first glance, these look like automatic gearboxes with no clutch pedal and an automatic style gearstick but this double clutch transmission is a combination of two parallel half gearboxes, which work together
and are both designed like a traditional manual gearbox.

The engine torque is transmitted to each half gearbox via a specific clutch:
■ One clutch looks after the odd-number
gears (1st, 3rd and 5th);
■ The second clutch covers the even-number
gears (2nd, 4th and 6th), as well as reverse.

At the perfect moment the gears are changed by shifting from one clutch to the other, the first clutch opens whilst the second closes simultaneously which guarantees continuous and smooth traction during gear changes. The gears are pre-selected depending on acceleration or deceleration.

The workshop equipment required for this repair is a two-post ramp, transmission jack, engine support. Special tools required are the LuK standard tool set 400 0418 10 and LuK Renault tool set 400 0423 10, available from any LuK supplier. You should also source LuK’s Repset 2CT clutch kit as this contains
all the necessary components for the replacement of the double clutch system (See below).


On this particular vehicle a gearbox fault indicator was illuminated and a fault code of ‘1781’ was stored in the gearbox control unit, indicating that the clutch was slipping. As the vehicle had covered over 96,000 miles, clutch replacement was the solution for the fault.

Place the vehicle on the ramp before raising, and then slacken both front driveshaft nuts as these can be very tight and need to be removed during the repair. You should also ensure you have the locking wheel bolt key (if required) and slacken with a bar. Starting in the engine bay, remove the engine cover
and then disconnect and remove the battery (See below).


Now remove the battery carrier plate and disconnect the plug from the turbo boost control solenoid.
Unclip the battery wiring loom from the gearbox mounting and stow to give greater access to the gearbox area, before removing the gear selector cable from the gearbox by disconnecting the ball joint from the selector mounting ball (See below) and disconnecting the cable outer from the gearbox and storing
in the bulkhead area.


Before raising the vehicle, we must lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position to ensure the
column doesn’t rotate and cause problems to the steering angle sensor and air bag slip ring when the steering rack is removed. Once locked, remove the pinch bolt from the universal joint at the bottom of the steering column by the pedal box and disconnect.

Radiator grill
Raise the vehicle to waist height, remove the central part of the front radiator grill and the deflector under the radiator and then the air box assembly. Now remove both front wheels, the engine under tray and the left wheel arch liner. Detach both track rod ends and bottom ball joints from the front hub
assemblies, remove the anti-roll bar links from the struts, remove the drive shaft nuts and release the drive shafts from the hubs. Support the front sub frame with a transmission jack (See below), remove the six retaining bolts and gently lower the sub frame with the steering rack still attached.


Once free, lift off and store in a safe area. At this point, remove the wiring loom from the gearbox control unit and sensors, remove the intake pipe, remove the bolt from the wiring loom retaining channel and stow the loom safely out of the way.

Now remove the starter motor and the gearbox drain plug and drain the gearbox oil. Once the oil has drained, refit and torque the drain plug, before removing both drive shafts. You should also release the intermediate bearing holder on the right drive shaft (See below).


Remove the front bumper and then the intercooler support bracket, before removing the bolts from the front panel and replacing with two long bolts to act as guides. Also support the panel and slide the panel forward to gain more room for gearbox removal.

Remove the bell housing bolts, leaving two to support the gearbox that can easily be removed when the engine and gearbox are supported, then support the engine and gearbox, remove the gearbox mountings and lower the gearbox to a position that it is ready to be removed. Now remove the final two bell housing bolts and ease the gearbox out (note: the gearbox will be heavy as the double clutch is retained on the gearbox and not on the engine). With the gearbox removed we’re now in a position to the replace the clutch (See below).


LuK trained and certified technicians can replace the double clutch assembly and engagement mechanism. Release the transport locks and adjust the clutch with the LuK special tools 400 0418 10 and 400 0423 10. Check the DMF anti-back lash ring for damage; our customer requested that we
change the dual DMF whist the gearbox was removed.

With the DMF replaced and the new double clutch fitted to the gearbox we can now refit the gearbox in reverse order of removal; always check for correct position and alignment of mountings and bolts and
torque to the manufactures specification.

Refill the gearbox with the correct quantity and quality of oil and, once the car is running, carry out basic settings and then adaptions on the gearbox control unit with a compatible diagnostic machine, always
remembering to reset the electrical consumers after the battery has been disconnected i.e. clock, radio, electric windows, etc.

Ignition Coils – Everything you need to know


Look under the bonnet of a modern vehicle and there is no doubt that the scene appears different to that of one of yester-year. With regards to ignition, distributors and lead sets are now a rarity – replaced with ‘plug top’ coils and ‘rail’ coils.

The ignition coil sector is now a significant part of the business of NGK Spark Plugs (UK). Although we recognise the importance of still catering for the earlier vehicles, many of which utilise the old metal can type ignition coils which incorporate oil to provide insulation and cooling, we also supply coils for the modern vehicle models that are venturing out of the main dealer network for repair.

What causes the demand for ignition coils is the harsh environment in which they work, which in turn creates a greater possibility of failure. As a result, although not strictly service items as such, many technicians view them in that category.

Coil manufacture has to be of a very high standard these days, mainly due to the high temperature fluctuations they’re subjected to. Many are mounted directly on the spark plugs and the severe cooling/heating cycles that prevail are a test for even the best quality item.

It is worth investing in suitable coil removal tools, not only to make removal easier upon servicing, but to ensure that the body or housing is not twisted or distorted – which can cause unseen damage internally.

Strict quality processes
Compromises on coil quality due to choice of materials used or production costs should never be made without recognising that there is inevitably a significantly greater possibility of premature failure.

The ignition coils in the NGK range have been through strict quality processes, from the initial design stage to assembly and testing. The testing carried out prior to launch ensures the items meet or exceed the vehicle manufacturers’ OE items.

The quality processes also encompass the packaging in which the items are shipped. Attention to detail means that items are safe in transit and, to ensure correct fit first time, the NGK ignition coil packaging includes a label with a schematic diagram of the coil contained inside – so selection can be verified easily without removal from the box.

Coil selection can be made using NGK Partfinder found on the website and the current NGK ignition coils application catalogue is available in paper format, which includes enhanced coil images to further aid selection.

The most recent additions to the NGK range, which was launched in 2013, were 22 new coil types covering vehicles including the VW Up, Mini, Vauxhall Adam, Vauxhall Astra J, Vauxhall Mokka, Mazda 6, Renault Clio IV and Dacia Sandero II. Range expansion is on-going, with emphasis revolving around demand. In total, the range now comprises 340 ignition coils, thus offering a part for a high percentage of the UK car parc.

You can talk to the NGK Spark Plugs (UK) technical team and find out more about its ignition coils range by visiting Stand C28 at Donington Park.

What is DSG clutch technology?

Since 2008, many new VAG models have been equipped with the new seven-speed dual clutch gearbox (DSG) with an LuK dry double clutch (2CT) system, or – since 2004 – a six-speed wet clutch version which also features an LuK dual mass flywheel (DMF). You will find the six-speed version mostly fitted to larger, high powered vehicles, such as the Passat CC, whilst the seven-speed is being fitted to the ever more popular range of smaller vehicles throughout the range, such as the Polo and Golf.

Best of both worlds
These high-tech state-of-the-art transmissions are designed to incorporate the best advantages of both automatic and manual gearboxes. Automatic transmissions are able to offer superb driving comfort thanks to an automated gear shift and uninterrupted traction, whilst manual transmissions are sporty, fun and economical. A twin clutch system therefore combines the comfort of an automatic with the agility of a manual, along with incredibly smooth and fast gearshifts.

Technically, a DSG is an automated shift gearbox featuring two gear sets which operate independently of each other, thereby enabling fully automatic gear change without traction interruption. There is no clutch pedal and the conventional gear lever has been replaced with a lever with integrated Tiptronic function.

The image below shows a cutaway shot of an LuK Dry Double Clutch

As gear changes are fully computer controlled, it is much more difficult for poor or aggressive drivers to cause damage or premature wear to the system, which should help to optimise the expected service life of the clutch and gearbox components. Like conventional singledisc clutches, the dry double clutch of the seven-speed DSG is also located in the gearbox housing.

There are no drag losses as it is not oilimmersed, increasing engine and fuel efficiency whilst also making repairs less complex. From a technician’s point of view, the gearbox and clutch electronics (mechatronics) are diagnosable, so the system can be read using suitable diagnostic equipment. A full system reset – which puts the mechatronics unit into ‘Learn Mode’ – is required after every clutch replacement, again a simple function as long as you are using the correct equipment.

Since the clutch fitted to the Volkswagen six-speed DSG is oil-immersed (known as a wet clutch) it tends to wear at a much slower rate than equivalent dry clutches. However, there is the possibility that the DMF could wear and require replacement, especially as this transmission has been fitted to Volkswagen Group vehicles for more than 10 years. Fortunately, in a twin clutch transmission – and for the Volkswagen Group DSG in particular – this can be a much simpler task than for a conventional system, as the clutch is not bolted directly to the DMF.

No special tooling or training should be required for experienced clutch mechanics to be able to manage a twin clutch DMF replacement, and as the original equipment manufacturer of the dual mass flywheel for the six-speed Volkswagen DSG, LuK is on hand to supply the replacement DMF unit to the aftermarket as required.

The LuK Dry Double Clutch in-situ

The LuK designed and manufactured seven-speed dry clutch system also features a DMF that is not directly bolted to the flywheel and is just as simple to replace when worn. LuK engineers have also been investigating the potential for a complete replacement twin clutch kit solution for the UK aftermarket.

A range of original equipment components, specific tools and bespoke training programmes have already been designed and developed, and LuK is currently assessing the size of the opportunity for independents to offer the owners of vehicles coming out of the warranty period a viable aftermarket option when it comes to buying a replacement twin-clutch.

Due to its success with the DSG, the Volkswagen Group has already announced that more than 40% of the cars they produce will be fitted with a dual clutch system by 2012, and this has not gone unnoticed in the automotive world. With the improved fuel economy and lowered emission levels it can help provide, many other vehicle manufacturers are now beginning to specify twin clutch transmission systems to help keep in line with ever more stringent Government legislation.

Vehicle producers that are currently using twin clutch systems, or who are developing new versions to use in their range include: Audi, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Mercedes-Benz, Renault, Seat and Skoda. LuK, as ever, will be at the forefront of this rapidly growing market, thanks to its ongoing commitment to innovation, technology and quality.

The benefits of a dual clutch system

• Combines the ease of an automatic transmission with the responsiveness of a manual gearbox
• Similar to an automatic transmission, but with excellent fuel efficiency
• No power interruption during torque transfer
• Significant reduction in CO2 emissions

How to change a clutch on a Renault Clio

The Renault Clio 2.0 Sport in its Mk2 guise was introduced by Renault Sport in 1998 and face-lifted in 2004. With over 13,000 vehicles on UK roads the 2.0 Sport may not be as popular as some of the smaller engine variants but it is still a worthy subject of an LuK ‘Clutch Clinic’.

With a lengthy removal process which is reflected in a removal time of more than seven hours, this handy article will undoubtedly be an essential read for any garage in the UK aftermarket.

No special tools are required to complete the repair. The only additional tools needed are a transmission jack, an engine support cradle and a long axle stand. A two-post ramp was used in this example and it is recommended that a four post-ramp is not used as it may not provide enough clearance. For the sake of safety it’s considered best practice to disconnect the battery earth lead before commencing work. If the vehicle has alloy wheels it may be fitted with anti-theft wheel bolts, so make sure you have the key before you start.

Getting to it

Open the bonnet and disconnect both battery terminals. Undo the battery clamp and remove the battery. Undo the jubilee clips (pictured below) securing the air inlet pipe and remove the connected breather.

Lift the inlet pipe out and undo the two air filter housing securing bolts (pictured below).

Lift out the air filter housing slightly and disconnect the inlet pipe underneath. Unclip the plastic inlet pipe attached to the slam panel housing and remove. Remove the air filter securing brackets and remove the complete air filter housing.

Retract and unclip the clutch cable and disconnect the fuel injection control unit connector. Undo the bracket attached to the gearbox supporting the ECU harness and remove the earth lead attached to the rear. Remove the large single gearbox mounting nut and the smaller bolts on either side (pictured below).

These smaller bolts are not captive and will need to be held from underneath. Undo the bolts securing the gearbox mounting bracket and lift the mount from under the battery tray. Undo all visible upper bell-housing bolts, support the engine with the support cradle and raise the vehicle to waist height.

Remove the nearside front road wheel and the associated hub nut. Remove the front nearside wheel arch liner and raise the vehicle to full working height. Drain the gearbox oil and unbolt the nearside bottom ball joint fixing (pictured below).

With care, knock the short shaft out of the hub and stow it to one side. Remove the three bolts (pictured below) securing the driveshaft to the gearbox and remove the driveshaft.

Unbolt the rear gearbox support mounting (pictured below) and undo the three starter motor bolts and stow it to one side.

Remove the nearside suspension link and the two earth leads attached to the gearbox. Unbolt the lower gearbox mounting (pictured below) and undo the subframe bolts, allowing it to lower on the nearside.

Disconnect the reverse light switch and remove the two rear suspension brackets. Remove the remaining bell housing bolts and, with support, lower the gearbox onto the subframe. You should now have enough clearance to remove the clutch and release bearing.

With the clutch removed, check the flywheel for signs of heat stress. Clean the first motion shaft splines and any debris from the bell housing (especially important when a release bearing has failed).

Wrapping up

Put a small dab of high melting point grease (not a copper-based product) on the first motion shaft splines and make sure the new driven plate slides freely back and forth. This not only spreads the grease evenly but also makes sure you have the correct kit. Wipe any excess grease off the shaft and driven plate hub. Using a universal alignment tool and checking the driven plate is the correct way round (note “Getriebe Seite” is German for “Gearbox Side”), the clutch can be bolted to the flywheel evenly and sequentially.

Before fitting the gearbox make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged. Refit any that have become dislodged and refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured before lowering the jack. Refitting is the reverse of the removal.

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Launched in 2001, the Vauxhall Vivaro is an excellent example of mutual ventures between vehicle manufacturers; the Renault Traffic and Nissan Primastar are quite similar applications. With over 140,000 Vivaro’s on UK roads today, this handy clutch replacement guide from LuK should prove valuable.

It is possible to find two types of gearbox designs that changed around late-2006 and early-2007 on these applications. In this article, we tackled the later version of the Vivaro with the wiring loom positioned at the top of the gearbox, which hides the top bell housing bolts, so this will have to be removed. In this repair, we used a two-post ramp, two transmission jacks and a suspension arm lever. The first stage of the repair is to remove the top gear box mount nut with the vehicle still at ground level. The remainder of the repair can then proceed from underneath. Raise the vehicle and drain the gearbox oil. Remove the nearside front wheel. Inside the wheel arch, release two bolts holding in place the side shield (Fig 1).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 1

Support the gearbox using a transmission jack. Release the power steering pipe, which is positioned on the side of the gearbox, by removing two bolts from the retaining brackets. Remove the bolt holding the earth cable in position and stow safely (Fig 2).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 2

Release the second power steering pipe positioned at the front of the engine, held by two bolts mounted to the gearbox mount and one bolt at the rear of the engine. Remove three bolts that hold in place the gearbox mount: two on the side and one on the top. Then, release the top mount from its position. Disconnect the ABS sensor connectors and release three nuts connecting the lower suspension arm to the ball joint on the near side. Using the suspension arm lever, separate the parts (Fig 3), and swing the suspension leg to the side whilst holding and releasing the driveshaft from the gearbox.

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 3

Repeat this procedure for the off-side, taking care when releasing the driveshaft from the gearbox, as it locates through a support bearing.

Bracket removal

The bracket will need to be removed releasing two bolts (Fig 4).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 4

Swing the suspension leg to the side, and the driveshaft and bearing will slide out of its location. We secured the driveshaft in place by using a pair of locking grips to stop it from returning to its original position through the support bracket (Fig 5).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 5

Remove the gear linkage and bracket as one complete assembly by removing three bolts – two situated on the side and one on the top of the gearbox – and stow. Disconnect the reverse light switch (Fig 6).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 6

Remove the plastic wiring loom carrier by removing two bolts – one at the front and one at the rear of the gearbox – then stow the wiring loom using cable ties (Fig 7).

How to change a clutch on a Vauxhall Vivaro

Fig 7

Remove the top two bell housing nuts and the two starter motor bolts, and then release the two bell housing bolts on the rear of the gearbox. Secure the front section power steering pipe using cable ties to ease the removal of the gearbox. We tried to lower the gearbox without doing this, and the pipe can get caught on the bell housing, so the pipe must be stowed to prevent any damage. Support the gearbox with a second transmission jack and cradle.

Lower gearbox to the floor

Remove the four bottom bell housing bolts and carefully lower the gearbox to the floor. Remove the worn clutch cover, drive plate and release bearing. With the clutch removed, check the flywheel for signs of heat stress. Clean the first motion shaft splines and any debris from the bell housing, which is especially important when a release bearing has failed.

Put a small dab of high-melting point grease – not a copper-based product – on the first motion shaft splines, and make sure the new driven plate slides freely back and forth. This not only spreads the grease evenly, but also makes sure you have the correct kit. Wipe any excess grease off the shaft and driven plate hub.

Using a universal alignment tool and checking the driven plate is the correct way round (note “Getriebe Seite” is German for “Gearbox Side”) the clutch can be bolted to the flywheel evenly and sequentially Before fitting the gearbox, make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged. Refit any that have become dislodged and refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured, and the gearbox mount is installed before removing the transmission jacks. Refitting of the parts is the reverse of removal.

What is a judder damper?

As a technology and development partner to the world’s leading vehicle manufacturers, LuK –  a brand of Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket – is well equipped to provide innovative solutions to the problems encountered by engine designers in the quest for ever lower emission levels and fuel consumption.

One such problem can be a ‘judder’ from the drive train, which is caused by what engineers call ‘excitation’. Whilst not a major functionality issue, excitation can cause vibration and noises that may affect the comfort and drivability of the vehicle.

There are three types of ‘excitation’ that are the root cause of judder: ‘facing excitation’ which exists between two surfaces (such as the drive plate and clutch cover or flywheel), ‘geometrical excitation’ caused by rotational anomalies such as gearbox to flywheel misalignment, and ‘modulation excitation’ which is brought about by relevant movement between components (i.e. excessive crankshaft end float).

Solving the issue

A team of LuK engineers looked long and hard at all of these factors and came up with a solution that honours Schaeffler’s history of creative innovation. They call it the ‘judder damper’, and you will find it incorporated into the design of some the very latest clutch discs when specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Essentially, the clutch disc has been enhanced by the inclusion of a centrally mounted weighted and sprung damping mechanism which provides an effective barrier that absorbs and eliminates drivetrain vibrations caused by excitation. The ‘judder damper’ system works by adding a mass damper to the drive plate. The increased damper mass rotates due to inertia and changes the force required to turn it via a diaphragm spring and friction ring combination. This effect is entirely independent of any excitation torque and always provides the optimum level of damping required. What’s more, thousands of hours of development and testing have proved the key benefits of the system.

Many vehicles have already been equipped with a judder damper as original fitment and, as you would expect, LuK is ready to deliver this very latest technology direct to the aftermarket as a RepSet® repair solution.

Adding up the key features of the Judder Damper

– Elimination of pedal vibration +
– Significant reduction in cabin noise +
– Reduction in vibration levels to the drive train of more than 60%
= Increased driving comfort

Double Clutch Repair Kit for the Renault Vehicles

LuK has developed its latest new repair solution for double clutch systems with the RepSet® 2CT for Renault vehicles fitted with the DC4 six-speed transmission.

The new product will be able to assist independent garages to repair dry double clutch systems on Renault Mégane III and Scénic III models powered by K9K engines. As wear can also be expected in engagement systems, a LuK RepSet® 2CT includes not only guide sleeve, snap rings and fastening screws, but also lever actuators/engagement lever and engagement bearings.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

VEHICLE: Renault Laguna Generation 3 2.OL petrol model with engine code F4R
LUK REPSET P/N: 624335909
LUK CSC P/N: 510022510

The Renault Laguna was launched in 1994, predeceasing the Renault 21. In 2001 we saw the introduction of the 2nd generation Laguna, with the 3rd generation model launched in 2007. The vehicle has seen very strong sales in the UK and is particularly popular with families because of the room and comfort that it offers.

The vehicle used for this guide had covered over 125,000 miles and is fitted from new with a LuK Self-Adjusting Clutch (SAC), Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) and Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC). To replace the clutch you need the usual workshop equipment, two-post ramp, gearbox jack, engine support and a self-adjusting clutch mounting tool.

Before starting work, if the vehicle is fitted with locking wheel nuts then make sure you have the key to hand. With the car on the ramp you should then remove the battery, battery tray, air filter, filter housing, and the starter motor.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

Remove the engine under-shields and drain the gearbox oil before removing the front wheels (as the drive shafts are to be removed from their respective hubs it is advisable to slacken the hub nut at this stage), front wheel arch liners, ABS wiring and headlight level sensors.

Detach the hubs

Remove the front brake calipers and discs from the front hub assemblies; detach the track rod ends and also the anti-roll bar links. Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the front suspension struts to detach the hubs from the struts.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

Remove the intercooler holding bar/alloy subframe and tie up the intercooler to support the hoses. Then disconnect the steering rack from the column, making sure the front wheels are in the straight ahead position before doing so (it is advisable to lock the steering wheel in position and make a mark as a reference point to help when re-connecting the rack to the column).

We can now remove the front subframe complete with front hub assemblies, power steering rack and anti-roll bar.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

The driveshafts can also now be removed from the gearbox.

Disconnect the reverse switch multiplug and unclip the wiring loom, clamp the flexible part of the clutch hydraulic pipe and remove from the clutch concentric slave cylinder at the retaining clip. Disconnect the gear linkage cable from the gearbox and disconnect the breather pipes and coolant hoses from the retaining clips, ready for gearbox removal. Support the engine on the engine support beam and then remove the gearbox mountings. Once you’ve supported the gearbox with a transmission jack and removed the bell housing bolts, the gearbox is now ready for removal.

Lower the engine and gearbox slightly to aid removal and pull the gearbox away from the engine. Lower the transmission jack to remove the gearbox from the engine compartment. At this point we can see if the clutch is at the end of its service life by looking at the length of the small yellow springs on the pressure plate: if they’re at full extension this indicates the clutch is at full adjustment and requires replacement.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

Clean the bell housing area and replace the concentric slave cylinder. Select the correct adaptor that goes inbetween the concentric slave cylinder and the clutch pipe (adaptors come with the LuK CSC), clean the input shaft splines and lightly grease using a high melting point grease; at this point we can fit the clutch plate to the input shaft to ensure the grease is spread evenly and also that the clutch plate fits the input shaft, before wiping off any excess grease.

Dual Mass Flywheel tool

Remove the clutch assembly and, as this vehicle is fitted with a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF), it should always be checked with a specialist DMF tool and replaced if necessary (LuK part number 400008010 is specifically developed for this purpose).

The LuK self adjusting clutch installation tool should always be used for vehicles with an SAC (LuK part number 400023710) as this ensures the clutch is fitted centrally and squarely as well as guaranteeing that the adjusting ring in the pressure plate doesn’t rotate and cause incorrect adjustment.

How to replace a clutch on a Renault Laguna

When installing the clutch plate you’ll see that stamped into the clutch plate is “Getriebeseite” or “Gearbox side”, this is to help ensure the clutch plate is fitted correctly. Torque up the clutch as per manufacturers’ instruction and ensure the dowels are fitted correctly for gearbox location and alignment.

Refit the gearbox and all other components in reverse order, always checking for correct position, condition and alignment of components. Fill the gearbox with the correct quantity and grade of gearbox oil, bleed the clutch (ideally with a vacuum bleeder) and then finally carry out a full transmission system test, ensuring clutch and gear operation is correct.

Troubleshooting – Renault Master 2.5D timing belt fitment errors

When installing a timing belt kit on models such as the Renault Master (this is also relevant to the 2.2DCi variant), installation errors commonly occur as a result of:

1) Inappropriate tools

2) Out-of-date technical information/data

3) Incorrect installation procedure

However, an inspection carried out at a garage in Yorkshire has unearthed an alternative twist on the latter: namely misinterpretation of the installation procedure.

Expert diagnosis

A vehicle had suffered a catastrophic engine failure. The garage in question had used the appropriate tools. It had access to the most up-to-date data and had also followed the recommended guidelines for the installation procedure. In the absence of any other obvious cause of drive system failure, help was sought in the form of a diagnosis supplied by a technical expert from the Gates Technical Training and Support Team.


Satisfied that the garage had used the correct tools and had accessed the correct technical data, the installation procedure – detailed on the next page – was subsequently re-examined. In stage one, the tensioner position had been set correctly. The engine had been rotated through two full revolutions in order to establish the appropriate position at high tension, with the lever arm level with the top of the camshaft locking tool.

However, a simple misinterpretation of the setup guidelines for the tension setting, at stage two, had caused the problem.

The lever arm on the tool has a raised edge, which is crucial to the final result. In stage two, it is the Raised Edge of the lever arm that must be level with the top of the camshaft locking tool. Although the difference between the two positions is as little as 1mm, it is enough to initiate the chain of events that causes the drive system to fail prematurely.

Consequential damage

The mechanic had assumed that the second stage was a repeat of the first. Instead of setting the appropriate tension in stage two, stage one had been repeated. But this time, there was no subsequent double revolution of the engine. Consequently, the internal eccentric of the tensioner was in the incorrect position.

As a result the curser soon made contact with the end stop (the spring carrier), causing it to break. This caused complete loss of tension in the drive system, and, thus, catastrophic engine failure was inevitable.

Key learning points

Familiarity with a particular installation procedure can lead to problems – especially in cases where there is a subsequent OE upgrade – but assumptions can be just as dangerous.

Even after the drive system had failed, despite re-reading the installation guidelines several times, the detail concerning the Raised Edge – a key element of the instruction guidelines – had still gone unnoticed by both the garage and the motor factor. The mechanic had seen what he expected to see. It’s an easy but very expensive mistake to make.


Gates always recommends the use of appropriate data at every installation. It is dangerous to assume that one procedure is similar to another. Although manufacturers have models with similar engines in the same range, there are often many different engine codes. Each may require a different installation procedure.

The timing belt replacement procedure

Like so many of today’s modern vehicles, the drive system has its own particular setup. The timing belt replacement procedure on this vehicle can only be completed safely and correctly with the help of an appropriate tool set for the job and a clear understanding of a complex procedure.

The tool is ready

Lever arm level with top of tool, initial position

Setup procedure

The valve timing is managed internally, via a set of gears; however, an auxiliary camshaft runs at half engine speed, and the power from this is transferred to the camshaft via a shorter than normal synchronous belt.

As with most vehicles of this genre, the cold engine is rotated manually in order to bed the belt into the pulleys and to compress the fabric of the jacket around the teeth. The engine is equipped with an automatic tensioner.

Installation tension of the belt takes place in two stages:


A camshaft locking tool is required to set the precise tensioner position. With the tool in place, the position is set by means of a lever arm on the locking tool itself. When the lever arm is level with the top of the locking tool, high tension has been achieved. This is the desired initial tensioner position. The camshaft locking tool is then removed, and the engine is rotated manually – two full revolutions.


The camshaft locking tool is now replaced, and the correct installation tension is set by aligning the raised edge of the lever arm level with the top of the tool. This is the desired installation tension.

Final position, raised edge comes level with top of tool

How to replace a cambelt on a Renault GU9 engine

Right first time
12 technicians from the West Midlands have helped stage a ‘first’ for the Gates Technical Workshop Series for drive belt systems.

Events usually comprise of drive belt specialists from a range of different garages however, on this occasion all were drawn from the same fast fit, tyres, exhaust, service and maintenance repair group.

Bilston-based EF Eurofit runs ten branches in and around the Wolverhampton area and was delighted to take up the training opportunity, which was organised by a local motor factor.

The feedback from the technicians was great with those in attendance commenting on the fact that they’d all remembered some fundamentals that they had forgotten, heard a bit more about some things they already knew and also learned a lot about installing different drive systems.

This Technical Workshop focused on Synchronous Belt Drive Systems (SBDS) and some specific models, but others can involve Auxiliary Belt Drive Systems (ABDS) or a combination of the two.

They are always organised in association with local motor factors, at a time to suit the garage, with most events taking place in the early evening after the garage has closed.

On re-examining the manufacturer’s recommended procedure, it emerged that they had left the exhaust cam pulley on the shaft. It was this oversight that appeared to make the belt ‘too short’. It must be removed as part of the stripping down procedure and, with the exhaust cam pulley removed, the pulley can be placed inside the belt. The pulley can then be refitted to the camshaft.

The procedure must be followed to the letter, from start to finish, and this case proves that the removal procedure can be just as important as the installation. There must be no short cuts and no additional ‘steps’.
Removing the guide pulley would have provided the technicians with the clearance required. However, the guide pulley bolt is particularly long so there is a real risk of cross threading – an unnecessary risk that could have compromised the drive.

Additional issues
Further fitting mistakes are common. For example, in order to remove the cam pulley and preserve the timing, a special cam locking tool is required. This also incorporates a lever arm, which comes into contact with the pointer on the tensioner.

As the tensioner is adjusted into the belt, the lever arm will rise to indicate the pointer position. It is a procedure that must be repeated, with an essential difference the second time around.

The first time, the lever arm must be level with the top of the tool. The second time, the raised part of the lever arm must be level with the top of the tool.

More often than not, technicians misread the instructions, repeating the same procedure twice. If this happens, the tensioner will be set in ‘high tension’, allowing the curser to make contact with the end stop. When that happens, the end stop will break, causing the spring to detach. The belt will no longer have any tension and the inevitable consequence will be catastrophic engine failure.

Two essential new cooling system guides from Gates
Gates is increasing its technical support for garage technicians by publishing two essential documents on cooling systems diagnosis, service and repair.
As a major supplier of OE quality replacement parts for cooling systems, the catalogue includes thermostats, radiator and expansion tank caps, curved hoses, flexible hoses, straight hoses and the necessary heater hose connectors.

1. Diagnosis Made Easy
This 16-page booklet highlights the major cooling system diagnostic issues. White smoke from the exhaust pipe, rising fuel consumption, irregular water coolant levels, liquid under the car, unusual noises in the system – and steam – are just some of the symptoms that can indicate problems within the cooling system.

2. Cooling System Troubleshooting Guide
Armed with a clearer understanding of what to look for, the professional technician can use the more comprehensive 60-page illustrated Cooling System Troubleshooting Guide, to identify and trace the faults.

Technicians are guided step-bystep. It opens with essential information before attempting a repair and goes on to consider causes of various problems, including those related to hoses, pipes, thermostats, water pumps and bearings. Contamination, corrosion and component failure are among the issues examined.

Users follow a logical route from initial diagnosis to appropriate resolution of each problem.

The guide concludes with a quiz, designed to help technicians re-cap the major issues – from identifying first evidence of a fault to basic fault diagnosis and fault rectification.