Category Archives: Kia

Hyundai or Kia Timing Belt Tensioner – A Technical Tip from Gates

screen-shot-2016-11-02-at-09-27-45Timing Belt Tensioner Installation and Setup
After performing a thorough analysis of the timing system on these vehicles, Gates Engineers have determined a need to highlight proper installation and setup procedures of the timing belt tensioner. This tensioner is a spring type automatic tensioner with eccentric adjustment for setting the initial tension. Tension in the drive is increased by rotating the eccentric counterclockwise as indicated by the arrow stamped on the tensioner.

OEM instructions state to rotate the eccentric counterclockwise using an Allen wrench until the pointer is centered in the window as illustrated below. The instructions then dictate to torque the mounting bolt to the indicated specification. The specified torque value varies depending on the application, and as a result, one should reference the accompanied table for the proper spec.

The torque procedure is as follows: Turn the mounting bolt clockwise while applying counterclockwise pressure on the tensioner via the eccentric with an Allen wrench.

screen-shot-2016-11-02-at-09-27-36Once the mounting bolt is torqued, verify correct tension in the drive by turning the engine two complete revolutions. If the pointer is still centered in the window, proceed with reassembly. Otherwise, loosen the mounting bolt and repeat the procedures above.

Although this bulletin outlines the procedures for installing and setting up the timing belt tensioner, always verify all manufacturer recommended procedures and torque speci cations as they are subject to change.

screen-shot-2016-11-02-at-09-27-57

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee’d

The Kia Cee`d is a small family hatchback with various engine and body style options available to choose from. Launched in 2006, it has become increasingly popular on UK roads so these handy hints will be of great use to any independent garage looking to undertake the repair.

In this example we used a two-post ramp, an engine support beam, two long axle stands and one transmission jack. The vehicle may also be fitted with alloy wheels so make sure the locking tool is available before starting the repair.

Remove the air filter housing

Remove the engine cover and disconnect the battery cables. Disconnect the MAF sensor switch and ECU cables and stow carefully. Remove the air filter housing and ECU as one complete unit. Disconnect the speed sensor and reverse light plugs and stow safely out of the way.

Remove the locking pins holding the gear change cables in place (pictured below) and carefully pop off the gear change cables and stow.

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Remove two bolts from the shift linkage bracket, enabling you to remove as a complete unit from the gearbox. Unbolt the battery earth cable from the top of the gearbox (pictured below) and stow.

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Install the engine support beam and remove the two accessible starter motor bolts, one of which holds a bracket for the wiring loom. Remove the bolts from the top gearbox mount, raise the vehicle and remove the nearside front wheel and plastic wheel arch lining. Drain the gearbox oil.

Remove the under-tray and then the turbo charger pipe, which is secured by two brackets on the sump.

In this repair we avoided removing the sub-frame completely. Support the sub-frame with two long axle stands. Unbolt and remove the four bolts securing the steering rack in place. Disconnect the exhaust support bracket from the sub frame (pictured below).

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Remove the two front sub-frame bolts completely and slacken the rear sub-frame nut and bolts just enough so the front of the sub-frame can be lowered on the transmission jacks. Remove the nearside ball joint bolts and disconnect from its position and remove the drive shaft.

Remove the front and rear gearbox mounts. Remove the bracket that secures the hydraulic pipe to the gearbox (pictured below)

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Then remove the two bolts that hold the external slave cylinder in position (pictured below) and carefully stow away from the working area.

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Remove the clutch

Support the gearbox with the transmission jack. Remove the bottom starter motor bolt and three bottom bell housing bolts from the rear of the gearbox; one bell housing bolt is hidden behind a plastic cover (pictured below).

How to change a clutch on a Kia Cee'd

Remove the remaining bell housing bolts from the front and carefully separate the gearbox from the engine. You should have enough clearance inside the wheel arch to position the gearbox inside and support using the transmission jack safely. Remove the clutch and release bearing.

Check the bell housing for any debris and oil contamination and rectify before refitting the gearbox. The release bearing should always be changed during a clutch replacement; the release arm should be checked for smooth operation and for wear on the ball pivot. Check the flywheel for signs of heat stress such as hair line fractures or cracks; the surface of the flywheel should be checked to make sure it is within manufacturers’ wear tolerance.

If the surface of the flywheel is to be skimmed, make sure that the same amount is taken from the clutch bolting surface. Failure to check and rectify these areas may cause the clutch to operate incorrectly.

Before fitting the new clutch disc make sure the input shaft is clean and free from any wear, smear a little high melting point grease on the splines then slide the new clutch plate up and down the splines a couple of times, remove the plate and wipe any excess grease off.

Refitting the gearbox is the reversal of removal, remembering to refill the gearbox oil to the correct level when the gearbox is refitted.

How to change a clutch on a Kia Picanto

VEHICLE: Kia Picanto 1.0 petrol G4HE
RECOMMENDED LABOUR TIME: 3 HOURS
LUK PART NUMBER: 618301600

This specific vehicle had travelled almost 100,000 miles and the clutch pedal is very heavy, making it difficult to change gears. In such a case, especially in vehicles where the disengagement system is purely mechanical (mechanical bearing, fork and shaft bushes), it is necessary that these components are replaced together with the clutch and the other system components. When the clutch is very worn the force on the pedal will become greater, consequently the fork, shaft and bushes are stressed and can become twisted. If this happens, just replacing a clutch and not the other system components will drastically reduce its working life.

For this repair, we used a two-post lift, a transmission jack, some common hand tools, as well as an alignment tool and engine support bridge. If the vehicle is fitted with alloy wheels then you should ensure that the locking key is available before commencing the job. For safety reasons, it’s also important to disconnect the battery.

Getting started

Remove the engine cover, battery and battery tray and then remove the air duct and air filter housing completely.

Disconnect the wiring harness that includes the reverse light, speed sensor earth cable and also the Lambda sensor as this is secured to a bracket that is fixed to the gearbox.

In addition, disconnect the selector linkages from the release lever and detach the clutch cable at the gearbox

Install the engine bridge and then remove the top bell housing bolts and starter motor bolts. Remove the gearbox support mounting and bracket as this could prohibit the lowering of the transmission later.

Raise the vehicle and remove the wheels and the lower ball joints in order to disconnect the drive shafts from the gearbox and not from the wheel hub side. In this repair the drive shafts remained on the vehicle and we disconnected the driveshaft on both sides from the flange, including the rubber protection boot and metal ring that holds the boot in place.

The driveshaft flanges remained on the gearbox so we had no reason to drain the transmission oil in this case. When installing the boot and driveshaft a new plastic retaining ring is used in place of the metal ring. Remove the front engine mounting.

Separate the gearbox

Support the gearbox with the transmission jack and remove the remaining bell housing bolts before carefully separating the gearbox from the engine and lowering to the floor.

When you remove the old clutch unit, you must ensure that the flywheel surface is in a good condition.

Clean the inside of the gearbox before installing the new bearing and fork making sure that you apply the appropriate high melting point grease (not a copper-based product) on the fork joints.

Before installing the components, it is important to check the gearbox input shaft for tolerances and wears in the splines. Don’t forget that this specific vehicle is not equipped with a bearing in the flywheel, so the input shaft must have zero tolerances and be in a perfect condition. In addition, apply a small amount of high melting point grease to the input shaft splines and install the clutch disc (moving around on the splines to ensure the grease is spread evenly) before removing the excess grease with a clean cloth.

Using the alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel.

Note: On LuK plates you will find the words ‘Getriebeseite’ or ‘Gearbox side’, which indicate correct direction of the disc.

For the installation procedure you must follow the reverse order. Before fitting the gearbox make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged. Refit any that have become dislodged and refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured before lowering the jack.

For the latest in online support log on to www.repxpert.com.

MEET THEM AT MECHANEX

Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket’s three quality brands – LuK, INA and FAG – will all be in attendance throughout 2015 at our MECHANEX trade shows.

Offering visitors the opportunity to talk to Schaeffler’s group of experienced experts who will be on hand to offer helpful demonstrations and workshop hints, attendees can also find out about the latest technologies that will soon be appearing in their workshop.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

The city car segment is fiercely competitive with many small, efficient cars driving around our towns and cities today. The Kia Picanto is one popular car in this segment, offering two engine sizes, and comes well equipped to keep the driver comfortable.

Launched in 2004 the first generation did receive a facelift, with the second generation being launched in 2011 to present day.

Recommended labour time: 3 hours. LuK part number installed: 618308700

The specific vehicle in this guide is the 1.1 petrol engine (G4HG) with a very heavy clutch pedal, making it difficult to change gears. In such a case, especially in vehicles where the disengagement system is purely mechanical (mechanical bearing, fork and shaft bushes), it is necessary that these components are replaced together with the clutch and the other system components.

When the clutch is so worn the force on the pedal will become greater, consequently the fork, shaft and bushes are stressed and can become twisted. If this happens, just replacing a clutch and not the other system components will drastically reduce its working life.

In this article, we used a two-post lift, a transmission jack and some common hand tools, as well as an alignment tool and engine support hoist. Before undertaking the repair, make sure the locking key is available (if the vehicle is fitted with alloy wheels) and disconnect the battery for safety.

Wiring harness

Remove the engine cover, battery and battery tray and then remove the air duct and air filter housing completely.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

Disconnect the wiring harness that includes the reverse light, speed sensor and earth cable that are secured to a bracket that is fixed to the gearbox. In addition, disconnect the selector linkages from the release lever and detach the clutch cable.

Install the engine bridge and then remove the top bell housing bolts, starter motor bolts. Follow this by removing the gearbox support mounting and bracket, as this could prohibit the lowering of the transmission later.

Raise the vehicle and remove both the front wheels. Drain the gearbox oil and then disconnect the lower ball joints in order to remove the drive shafts.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

Remove the drive shaft nuts and then detach the shafts from the wheel hub; this will more than likely require some force, but you should be careful not to cause any damage. Finally, remove both drive shafts from the gearbox. Remove the front engine mounting, taking note of which way it is fixed as it is offset.

Support the gearbox with the transmission jack and remove the remaining bell housing bolts.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

Then carefully separate the gearbox from the engine and lower to the floor.

When you remove the old clutch unit, you must ensure that the flywheel surface is in a good condition. Clean the inside of the gearbox before installing the new bearing and fork, making sure that you apply the appropriate high melting point grease (not a copper-based product) on the fork joints.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

Before installing the components, it is important to check the gearbox input shaft for tolerances and wears in the splines. Don’t forget that this specific vehicle is not equipped with a bearing in the flywheel, so the input shaft must have zero tolerances and be in a perfect condition. In addition, apply a small amount of high melting point grease to the input shaft splines and install the clutch disc, moving around on the splines to ensure the grease is spread evenly. Then remove the excess grease with a clean cloth.

Using the alignment tool install the clutch disc to the flywheel, followed by the cover.

How to replace a clutch on a Kia Picanto

You should note that on LuK plates you will find the words ‘Getriebeseite’ or ‘Gearbox side’, which indicate correct direction of the disc.

For the installation procedure you must follow the reverse order. Before fitting the gearbox make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged; refit any that have become dislodged and refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured before lowering the jack. Remember to refill the gearbox with the new gearbox oil to the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

How to change a clutch on a Kia Picanto

VEHICLE: Kia Picanto 1.0 petrol G4HE
RECOMMENDED LABOUR TIME: 3 HOURS
LUK PART NUMBER: 618301600

This specific vehicle had travelled almost 100,000 miles and the clutch pedal is very heavy, making it difficult to change gears. In such a case, especially in vehicles where the disengagement system is purely mechanical (mechanical bearing, fork and shaft bushes), it is necessary that these components are replaced together with the clutch and the other system components. When the clutch is very worn the force on the pedal will become greater, consequently the fork, shaft and bushes are stressed and can become twisted. If this happens, just replacing a clutch and not the other system components will drastically reduce its working life.

For this repair, we used a two-post lift, a transmission jack, some common hand tools, as well as an alignment tool and engine support bridge. If the vehicle is fitted with alloy wheels then you should ensure that the locking key is available before commencing the job. For safety reasons, it’s also important to disconnect the battery.

Getting started

Remove the engine cover, battery and battery tray and then remove the air duct and air filter housing completely.

Disconnect the wiring harness that includes the reverse light, speed sensor earth cable and also the Lambda sensor as this is secured to a bracket that is fixed to the gearbox.

In addition, disconnect the selector linkages from the release lever and detach the clutch cable at the gearbox

Install the engine bridge and then remove the top bell housing bolts and starter motor bolts. Remove the gearbox support mounting and bracket as this could prohibit the lowering of the transmission later.

Raise the vehicle and remove the wheels and the lower ball joints in order to disconnect the drive shafts from the gearbox and not from the wheel hub side. In this repair the drive shafts remained on the vehicle and we disconnected the driveshaft on both sides from the flange, including the rubber protection boot and metal ring that holds the boot in place.

The driveshaft flanges remained on the gearbox so we had no reason to drain the transmission oil in this case. When installing the boot and driveshaft a new plastic retaining ring is used in place of the metal ring. Remove the front engine mounting.

Separate the gearbox

Support the gearbox with the transmission jack and remove the remaining bell housing bolts before carefully separating the gearbox from the engine and lowering to the floor.

When you remove the old clutch unit, you must ensure that the flywheel surface is in a good condition.

Clean the inside of the gearbox before installing the new bearing and fork making sure that you apply the appropriate high melting point grease (not a copper-based product) on the fork joints.

Before installing the components, it is important to check the gearbox input shaft for tolerances and wears in the splines. Don’t forget that this specific vehicle is not equipped with a bearing in the flywheel, so the input shaft must have zero tolerances and be in a perfect condition. In addition, apply a small amount of high melting point grease to the input shaft splines and install the clutch disc (moving around on the splines to ensure the grease is spread evenly) before removing the excess grease with a clean cloth.

Using the alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel.

Note: On LuK plates you will find the words ‘Getriebeseite’ or ‘Gearbox side’, which indicate correct direction of the disc.

For the installation procedure you must follow the reverse order. Before fitting the gearbox make sure the locating dowels are in place and not damaged. Refit any that have become dislodged and refit the gearbox. Make sure the gearbox bell housing bolts are secured before lowering the jack.

For the latest in online support log on to www.repxpert.com.

MEET THEM AT MECHANEX

Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket’s three quality brands – LuK, INA and FAG – will all be in attendance throughout 2015 at our MECHANEX trade shows.

Offering visitors the opportunity to talk to Schaeffler’s group of experienced experts who will be on hand to offer helpful demonstrations and workshop hints, attendees can also find out about the latest technologies that will soon be appearing in their workshop.

How to correctly replace the front axle wheel bearing

VEHICLE: KIA PICANTO
RECOMMENDED LABOUR TIME: 1 HOUR
FAG WHEEL BEARING P/N: 713619510

The Kia Picanto is a small but spacious city car with various engine and body style options available to choose from. Launched in 2004, it has become an increasingly popular vehicle on the UK roads today.

If the vehicle has alloy wheels fitted, ensure the locking nut is with the vehicle before undertaking the repair. Raise the vehicle on the ramp to a suitable working height – we used a two-post ramp in this case but the repair could be carried out on the floor if necessary.

Remove the front wheel on the relevant side; we would advise whenever possible, to replace the wheel bearings in pairs as it is likely the bearing on the opposite side is as worn as the one being replaced.

Remove the drive shaft nut and release the drive shaft from the hub.

Clean the track rod end with a wire brush to remove any hard rust, remove the split pin and disconnect the track rod from its position. The lower ball joint can then be disconnected.

Remove the brake calliper as a complete assembly and support it to the coil spring using a bungee tie. Remove the brake disc. Disconnect the ABS sensor and stow to the side so it is not damaged in any way.

The hub can now be removed so the wheel bearing can be replaced.

Remove the rusty old circlip and then proceed to remove the drive flange from the hub.

In our case we used a pull hammer that was fixed to the wheel bolt fixings to release the drive flange.

The next step is to remove the bearing from the hub using a hydraulic press and suitable diameter wheel bearing tool, or you could use an old bearing with the same diameter to push out the bearing.

The inner raceway of the bearing will then need to be removed from the drive flange. It can be a little tricky to attach a puller securely to remove the inner raceway, so in our case we secured the drive flange in a vice. Using a die grinder, very carefully score part way through the inner raceway – just enough to weaken it, and taking extra care to not cut right through and damage the stub axle.

With the race now scored, use a blunt chisel to crack the score point and remove it in a controlled way, without causing any damage to the race.

With the bearing and inner race now removed, take time to check that the hub profile is round and not damaged; the outer race will always take the form of the hub it is being pressed into and could possibly cause the premature wear of the new wheel bearing. Clean the hub and stub axle to remove any dirt and rust.

When installing the new bearing into the hub it is vital that you press on the outer race and not on the flange. By doing this you ensure that the pressing force is not transmitted through the balls or rollers of the bearing, but only through the outer race. In this case we used the bearing that was removed as we know it is exactly the same diameter to press the bearing into the hub. Once the bearing is installed, the new circlip supplied with the bearing can be fitted.

Using a suitable diameter wheel bearing tool or a tube of the same size as the inner race, the hub can now be pressed onto the drive flange, avoiding any potential damage to the ball races.

The installation of the remaining parts is the reverse of the removal.