Category Archives: Clutches

How to fit a Clutch on a Toyota Rav4

How to fit a Clutch on a Toyota Rav4

A full clutch replacement guide for a Toyota RAV4 2.0 D4D from the experts at Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket. 

In this month’s article, we are replacing the clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) in a Toyota RAV4 2.0 D4D with permanent four-wheel drive, which has covered more than 130,000 miles. The customer reported that the clutch slips under full load, which a quick road test confirmed, and clutch replacement was advised.

Toyota released the first generation RAV4 in 1994 – RAV standing for Recreational Active Vehicle. Design features included increased interior room, higher visibility and the option of permanent four-wheel drive, along with good manoeuvrability and good fuel economy, all in a compact vehicle.

Toyota’s current RAV4 is the fourth generation. The RAV4 is available in short or long wheelbase with petrol or diesel engines, in either two-wheel drive or permanent four- wheel drive, and it also shares the same platform as the Toyota Carina and Corolla.

For this repair, we used the following workshop equipment: a two-post ramp and two transmission jacks.

If the vehicle is equipped with locking wheel bolts, ensure you have the key/tool prior to starting the repair.

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, disconnect the battery, then disconnect the multiplug from the air flow meter and remove the complete air filter assembly (see below) and disconnect the reverse light switch multiplug and the gearbox earth cable.

Now remove the gear linkage assembly and then unbolt the clutch slave cylinder that is located on the front of the gearbox, retained by 2 x 13mm nuts, and stow safely (the hydraulics do not have to be disconnected). You’ll also need to remove the plate that is mounted with the slave cylinder. At this point, we can remove the top bell housing bolts and then slacken the top gearbox mounting ready for removal later.

With the vehicle on the floor, slacken the wheel bolts and the O/S/F hub nut, raise the ramp to waist height and remove both front wheels, the O/S/F hub nut, the N/S/F wheel arch splash guard (see below) and the N/S/F under tray.


Raise the vehicle. Now we need to remove the front sub-frame, so disconnect the anti- roll bar clamps, remove the front gearbox mounting, disconnect both bottom ball joints, and take out the two bolts that hold the steering rack to the front sub-frame (see below) and secure the steering rack to the engine bay to hold in place.

Support the front sub-frame with a transmission jack and remove the sub- frame retaining bolts, lower the transmission jack and remove the front sub-frame (see below) and then remove the gearbox cross member/cradle.

Now drain the oil out of the gearbox and transfer box and, once the oil has drained, remove the O/S/F driveshaft by sliding out of the transfer box and store in a safe and clean area (see below).

It is advisable to plug the driveshaft holes when the driveshafts have been removed, to stop any excess oil dripping and to stop anything going into the transfer box, then the support bracket for the transfer box to the engine can be removed (see below).

The engine and gearbox can now be eased forward to release the front prop shaft joint from the transfer box. Next, pull the bottom of the N/S/F strut assembly outwards which will release the N/S/F driveshaft from the transfer box and the driveshaft can then be positioned conveniently.

From under the vehicle, we can now remove the gear linkage bracket and the speedo cable, which are located towards the top rear of the gearbox. Disconnect the starter motor from the front of the engine and leave in position. Support the engine using an engine brace or transmission jack, from the top, and disconnect the top gearbox mounting from the gearbox.

Now remove the remaining bell housing bolts, leaving one to hold the gearbox in position. Support the gearbox with a transmission jack and cradle, remove the final bell housing bolt and ease the gearbox away from the engine. You might find that the gearbox has seized on the dowels, so if this is the case, work the gearbox up and down until it has released from the dowels and then remove the gearbox (see below).

With the clutch now accessible, it was removed and inspected, with evidence that it had reached the end of its service life and that ‘slipping’ had taken place. The customer also requested that the DMF be replaced at the same time.

With the clutch and flywheel removed, clean the back of the engine to remove any clutch dust that could contaminate the new clutch and flywheel assembly, check all parts are correct and then fit the new flywheel.

With the flywheel torqued, clean the bell housing of the gearbox and clean and check all moving parts and pivot points for wear, and replace if required. Apply a small amount of high melting point grease to pivot points and contact areas and re-assemble removing any excess grease.

Install the new release bearing (see below), then lightly lubricate the gearbox input shaft splines with high melting point grease and slide the new clutch plate onto the input shaft to evenly distribute the grease, and to ensure the clutch plate is correct, wipe off any excess grease.

Fit the new clutch to the flywheel using a clutch alignment tool, ensuring the clutch plate is positioned correctly with ‘Gearbox Side’ or ‘Getriebe Seite’ facing the gearbox and then tighten the clutch bolts in an even and sequential manner and torque to the manufacturer’s specification (see below).

Re-fit the gearbox in reverse order of removal, refill the gearbox and transfer box with the correct quantity and specification of oil and, after connecting the battery, reset all electrical items as required and carry out a road test to ensure the repair is complete.

How to Fit a Timing Belt on a Volkswagen Beetle

 In this month’s article, Schaeffler replace the timing belt and water pump on a 2008 Volkswagen Beetle 1.9 TDI (BSW engine) that has covered just over 66,000 miles.

Volkswagen released the new Beetle in 1997. Prior to that, two concept cars had been designed and a strong demand had been noticed for a new Beetle, which went into production and was based on a Golf platform. Assembly took place in Mexico and it was available in petrol and diesel, with two body types; coupe and convertible.

This engine has been identified as an interference type, so in the event of a timing belt failure, the likelihood of engine damage is extremely high. It is always important to install a new timing belt system on an engine at ambient room temperature. Always adhere to turning the engine in direction of rotation unless otherwise advised by the installation instructions. Recommended torque values should always be used. It is also recommended that all the tensioners, idlers and fixings are replaced at the same time as the timing belt.

For safety reasons, it is best practice to disconnect the battery earth lead. The vehicle may also be fitted with locking wheel bolts, so make sure the key is available before starting the repair.

For this repair, the workshop equipment used was a two-post ramp, crank and camshaft locking tools, two pin tensioner wrench, engine support and a stud extractor.

All workshop repair information and repair times are available from

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, start by removing the engine cover, then remove the top intercooler hose, coolant expansion tank, fuel filter and fuel filter mounting bracket (see below).

Remove the tension from the auxiliary drive belt and lock the tensioner with a pin (see below), remove the auxiliary drive belt, check the auxiliary drive belt for wear and cracking/perishing and replace if required. Also, check the Over Running Alternator Pulley (OAP) for correct operation and then remove the auxiliary belt tensioner.

Raise the ramp, remove the o/s/f wheel, the lower intercooler hose, the engine under tray and then the o/s/f wheel arch liner, o/s lower engine cover (see below), and lastly remove the metal mounting bracket and the crankshaft front pulley. At this point, we need to support the engine as the engine mounting needs to be removed. This can be done with either an engine brace beam, a support that is located on the front sub-frame or, in this instance, we supported the engine with an axle stand, as most of the work is carried out from above.

Support the engine, then remove the engine mount and disconnect the mounting bracket from the engine block. This cannot be removed as there is not enough clearance, but can be manoeuvred to allow belt replacement. Now remove the upper timing belt cover, and then with access through the o/s/f wheel arch, take off the two lower timing belt covers, rotate the engine in a clockwise direction and align the timing marks. Then insert locking tools into the crankshaft (see below), and the camshaft (see below).

Once the cam and crank have been locked, slacken the tensioner nut, remove the tension from the belt and then take out the timing belt and the tensioner. A crucial point of this repair is to replace the studs for the tensioner and the idler (see below). They were removed easily with a socket type stud extractor and replaced and torqued with the same stud tool (the torque procedure of these studs is very important, so always refer to the latest information).

Now take out the water pump by removing the three retaining bolts and easing the pump out of the engine block, and then drain the engine coolant into a tray placed under the vehicle. Once drained, ensure the mounting and sealing faces for the pump are clean and dry, install the new water pump and tighten to the manufacturer’s specification. Remove and dry any remaining coolant in the timing belt area and fit the new idler and tensioner.

Using a counter-hold tool, slacken the three retaining bolts on the camshaft pulley and rotate the camshaft pulley in a clockwise direction until it is against its stops (see below). Now fit the new timing belt, starting on the crank pulley, then the idler, tensioner, camshaft pulley, and finishing off at the water pump.

How to Fit a Clutch on a Suzuki Alto

This month’s article documents a clutch replacement in a 2010 Suzuki Alto, fitted with a 1.0L, three-cylinder K10B engine, which has covered more than 70,000 miles. The customer reported clutch slip, which was confirmed by a short road test, and clutch replacement was advised.

The Suzuki Alto is quite a popular car on today’s roads – its initial cost being relatively low and with a good return on fuel. Suzuki launched the Alto in 1979 and it has been on the UK roads since 1981. The latest Suzuki Alto is the eighth generation.

When opening the bonnet and carrying out an initial inspection, working space is at a premium, but with a little guidance, this is a good repair for any garage with a book time of 5.1 hours.

For this fix we used the following workshop equipment: a two-post ramp and a transmission jack. With the car placed on the ramp, starting in the engine bay, disconnect and remove the battery, battery case and battery carrier. The wiring loom retaining clips need to be unclipped from the battery carrier when removing.

Now remove the air box/induction noise damper (see below) allowing more access to the gearbox and bell housing area. Slacken the clutch cable and then remove the cable from the clutch release arm, open the plastic retaining clip to release the cable and then slide the outer cable away from the support bracket (light lubrication may help the rubber slide out of the bracket) and stow in the bulkhead area. Remove the clutch cable support bracket as this gives a little extra room.

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Disconnect the reverse light switch multiplug and stow the loom in the inner wing. Disconnect the gear change cables from the selector mechanism by removing the ‘U clip’ from the front cable (see below) and then detaching from the ball pivot. Disconnect the rear cable by removing the bolts from the pivot point bracket and removing the assembly (note – there is a small nylon bush located in this assembly that can fall out). Slide the outer cables upwards and out of their support bracket and stow in the bulkhead area, then disconnect the gearbox earth wire and bracket.

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Now remove the upper bell housing bolts whilst the vehicle is on the ground and the bolts are easily accessible, storing in order and location. Next, slacken both driveshaft hub nuts and raise the vehicle to waist height. Remove both front wheels and hub nuts and the plastic shield in the N/S/F wheel arch area (see below), raise the vehicle to access the underside, drain the gearbox oil and then remove the locking pins from both bottom ball joint nuts and then take out the nuts and release both bottom ball joints. Both driveshafts can then be released from the respective hubs.

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Then, using a lever, ‘snap’ the inner driveshaft joints out of the gearbox, as these are retained by spring-loaded retaining rings, and remove the driveshafts and stow safely. Now take out the rear gearbox mount which is done by releasing the mounting from the bracket, and then the bracket from the gearbox – it is worth mentioning that the mounting and the bracket cannot be fully removed, but moved to give enough room to work.

Remove the rear bell housing bolts, which are now accessible, and support the engine (we used a transmission jack in this instance) close to the bell housing area. Next, remove both the front gearbox mounting and the mounting bracket from the gearbox, lower the transmission jack about 50mm to aid gearbox removal and remove the final bell housing bolts. The gearbox can now be taken from the vehicle, either by lifting it out by hand or using a second transmission jack.

With the gearbox gone (see below), the clutch can be removed from the flywheel and, as suspected, the clutch had been worn out. This vehicle is fitted with a solid flywheel, so inspect for any damage or heat cracks, confirm the flywheel is serviceable and remove the glaze from the flywheel face with some Emory cloth and clean the flywheel area with some clutch and brake dust cleaner. Finally, remove the release bearing from the release arm in the bell housing.

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At this point we noticed that the release fork/arm had restricted movement due to the build-up of clutch dust at the pivot points and would not return to its rest position (see below), so we cleaned out the area with clutch and brake dust cleaner, and inspected the release system for any wear and carried out a check for correct and full operation (see below).

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Fit the new release bearing, applying a very small amount of high melting point grease to the pivot areas as these are all metal. Apply a small amount of high melting point grease to the gearbox input shaft splines, then mount the clutch plate, confirming its correct position, and remove the clutch plate, wiping off any excess grease. Now mount the new clutch assembly onto the flywheel (see below) using a clutch alignment tool, ensuring the clutch plate is installed correctly so that the ‘Gearbox side’, or ‘Getriebe Seite’, markings on the clutch plate are facing the gearbox, tightening and torqueing the bolts evenly and sequentially.

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Re-fit the gearbox in reverse order of removal and refill the gearbox with oil. Before fitting the clutch cable, check the cable for free operation and when adjusting always remember to leave a little free play at the top of the pedal to ensure a full release. Once the repair is complete, carry out a road test to ensure the clutch and gear change operation is correct and that all electrical items have been reset after re-connecting the battery.


How to fit a Clutch in a Volkswagen Caddy

A full clutch replacement guide for a 1.6 TDI 2011 Volkswagen Caddy from the experts at Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket.

In this month’s article, we are replacing the clutch on a 2011 Volkswagen Caddy fitted with a 1.6 TDI common rail CAYD engine. The customer’s complaint was that the clutch slips under load and a short road test confirmed that to be the case. With a mileage of more than 92,000, clutch replacement was advised.

Volkswagen introduced the Caddy to Europe in 1982, with the current model being the third generation. It is available in two body sizes and with many variants. This model Caddy is based on a Volkswagen Touran with Volkswagen Golf Mk 5 front suspension, and was named best small van of the year in 2007 and 2008. The Volkswagen Caddy shares the same platform as other VAG models with a transverse engine/gearbox arrangement, so there is a good chance this will look quite familiar when the bonnet is raised.

We used the following workshop equipment for this repair: a scissor lift, transmission jack and an engine brace. If the vehicle is equipped with locking wheel bolts, locate the locking wheel bolt key before commencing the repair.

With the vehicle positioned on the ramp, open the bonnet and remove the engine cover, air intake duct and air filter assembly, disconnect the battery and then remove it, followed by the battery carrier. This now exposes the top of the gearbox, giving us good access for component removal (see below).


Disconnect the gear change cables from the selector linkage, remove the three bolts from the gear cable support bracket and stow in the bulkhead area. Remove the plastic quadrant (see below) from the selector mechanism by removing the retaining clip.


This will ensure the quadrant is not damaged during the gearbox removal and installation. Take off the centre nut from the selector mechanism and remove the gear change weight. Now remove the clutch slave cylinder assembly, inspect the slave cylinder for any fluid leaks or wear to contact areas. We found wear on the end of the slave cylinder push rod (see below), so a clutch slave cylinder replacement was advised.


Disconnect the earth cable from the bell housing bolt, followed by the reverse light switch wiring multiplug and then the wiring from the starter motor. At this point the top starter motor bolt and top bell housing bolts can be removed. Slacken both front wheel locking bolts with a bar and then raise the ramp to waist height, remove both front wheels and the N/S/F wheel arch liner, then raise the ramp to access the underside and remove the engine under tray. Remove the gearbox pendulum mounting (see below), and take out the six driveshaft flange retaining bolts from both driveshafts, disconnect the ball joints from the bottom suspension arms and release.


There will now be enough clearance to move and secure the driveshafts away from the gearbox to aid gearbox removal. The O/S gearbox output flange can now be removed by taking out the centre bolt. Be careful when removing the flange as some gearbox oil can run out (see below).


Now remove the bottom bell housing bolts, bottom starter motor bolt and the starter motor, lower the ramp and support the engine with an engine beam or support frame. Release the gearbox mounting and then lower the engine on a beam to a position where the gearbox can be removed. Raise the vehicle and support the gearbox with a transmission jack, so that the gearbox mounting bracket bolts can be accessed from the N/S/F wheel arch area. Remove the three bolts and the bracket (see below), then take out the final bell housing bolts and remove the gearbox with the aid of the transmission jack.


With the gearbox out of the way, the clutch was removed and, as diagnosed, it had reached the end of its service life. The solid flywheel was inspected and confirmed to be okay and the ‘glaze’ was removed from the flywheel face using emery cloth. The flywheel and back plate area should be cleaned to remove the old clutch dust. Remove the clutch release arm, bearing and gearbox input shaft sleeve and clean the clutch dust out of the bell housing area. Lubricate the gearbox input shaft splines with high melting point grease and then slide the new clutch plate onto the input shaft to confirm the splines are correct and to dissipate the grease evenly, then wipe off any excess.

Now fit the new clutch assembly (see below) using a clutch alignment tool. Always inspect the release arm and pivot points.


On our Caddy, we noticed some wear to the pivot point, so this was replaced (see below) along with the release arm that is provided in the clutch kit. Fit the new input shaft sleeve, clip the new release bearing into the release arm, apply a small amount of high melting point grease to the pivot points and then fit the release arm and bearing, securing the pivot point with the retaining clip.


Ensure the gearbox alignment dowels are still installed correctly in the engine block and then refit the gearbox. Once secured in position, the free play on the release arm can be felt to ensure correct fitment before full installation is carried out in reverse order of removal. A new clutch slave cylinder was fitted at this point and the clutch hydraulic system was gravity bled, with torque bolts returned to the manufacturer’s specifications. Check and top up the gearbox oil level as required. Ensure all electrical items are reset after the battery has been connected, and finally, carry out a full road test to ensure clutch and gearbox operation are correct.

Visco clutch

General points

The Visco clutch is part of the Visco fan. If has the task of creating the frictional connection between the drive and the fan wheel depending on temperature, and thus influencing its speed. There is a plastic fan attached to the clutch which generates the air flow as required.

Visco fans are mainly used in cars with longitudinally- mounted large-capacity engines and in trucks.


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The Visco clutch is usually driven directly by the engine via a shaft (Fig. 1). If no cooling air is required, the Visco clutch switches off and continues to run at a lower speed. As requirements increase, silicone oil flows from the storage area into the working area. There, the drive torque is transferred to the fan, the continuously variable speed of which is set automatically on the basis of the operating conditions by means of wear-free viscous friction. The switching point is around 80 °C. In the case of conventional Visco clutches, the air expelled by the fan meets bi-metal (Fig. 2), the thermal deformation of which has the effect of opening and closing a valve via a pin and valve lever. Depending on the valve position and thus the amount of oil in the working area, the transferred torques and fan speeds are set. The amount of oil required is 30 – 50 ml (passenger car). Even with the working area completely full there is a difference between the speed of the drive and that of the fan (slip). The heat produced is dissipated to the surrounding air via the cooling ribs.

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In the case of the electrically triggered Visco clutch, control takes place directly via sensors. A regulator processes the values and a pulsed control current carries these to the integrated electromagnet. The defined guided magnetic field regulates the valve which controls the internal oil flow via an armature. An additional sensor for fan speed completes the regulator circuit.

Electronically-controlled Visco clutch:

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Effects of failure

A faulty Visco clutch can become noticeable as follows:

  • Increased engine temperature or coolant temperature
  • Heavy noise development
  • Fan wheel continues to run at full speed under all operating conditions

The following can be considered as possible causes:

  • Lack of frictional connection through leaking oil
  • Loss of oil due to leak
  • Soiling of the cooling area or bi-metal
  • Internal damage (e.g. control valve)
  • Bearing damage
  • Damaged fan wheel
  • Permanent full frictional connection due to faulty clutch


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Test steps towards recognising faults:

  • Check the level of coolant and the antifreeze content
  • Check the Visco clutch with regard to outer soiling and damage
  • Check the bearing for play and noises
  • Make sure no oil is leaking
  • Check the Visco clutch by turning it by hand with the engine switched off. With the engine cold, the fan wheel should be easy to turn and with the engine hot it should be hard to turn.
  • If possible check the slip of the clutch using speed comparison between the speeds of the fan and the drive shaft. With full frictional connection, the difference may only be max. 5% for directly driven fans. An optical speed measuring device with reflective strips is suitable for this purpose (Fig. 3)
  • Check the electrical connection (electronically- triggered Visco clutch)
  • Check air cover/air baffle plates
  • Make sure there is enough air flowing through the fan

LuK RepSet 2CT – in plain English

LuK RepSet 2CT – in plain English

LuK RepSet 2CT is a unique repair solution for vehicles with a dry double clutch. But what is a double clutch? Simply put, it’s two clutches in one…
Smooth acceleration and fast shifting, even at high engine speeds – we offer you the right solution with our clutch parts and complete repair sets. Our clutch systems improve driving comfort and are known for their long life. The LuK RepSet 2CT is the practical repair solution for this technology. The repair solution is currently available for a wide variety of vehicles and models.

How to Fit a Clutch on a Ford Transit

A full clutch replacement guide for a 2.4 TDCI 2006 Ford Transit from the experts at Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket.

Ford released its first-generation Transit to the UK market in 1965 and the vehicle has received numerous facelifts along the way to becoming today’s current fourth generation model.

More than eight million Transits have been sold, making it the third best-selling van of all time. It has also been the best-selling light commercial vehicle in Europe for the last 40 years, so with this in mind, there is great opportunity to service and repair these vehicles.

In this month’s article, we are replacing a clutch on a 2006 Ford Transit 2.4 TDCI, which has covered more than 150,000 miles, where the customer has reported clutch slip under load. For this repair, we used the following workshop equipment: a four-post ramp with a beam jack, transmission jack and a tall axle stand.

Battery disconnection is required for this repair and it is advised to obtain the radio security code from the customer before starting. A short road test confirmed a diagnosis of clutch slip under load, and with over 150,000 miles on the clock, a clutch replacement was recommended. The workshop repair instructions and times were obtained from the Schaeffler REPXPERT online workshop portal.

With the vehicle positioned on the ramp, slide the driver’s seat forward to access the battery and disconnect the negative battery lead (see below), then raise the ramp and disconnect the propshaft from the gearbox by removing the three bolts and unbolt the two support bearings. The propshaft can then be positioned on the ramp with the rear still connected to the differential.

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Now remove the gearbox sub frame. Start by supporting the vehicle weight under the front cross member (see below), remove the pinch bolt from the steering column/rack connection and disconnect the steering column and secure to prevent rotation.

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After that, remove the oil feed and return pipes from the steering rack body (see below) and cap to prevent the oil system draining.

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Support the sub frame with a transmission jack and the gearbox with a tall axle stand. Remove the two large bolts that fix the rear gearbox mounting to the sub frame, and then remove the two bolts that go through the sub frame and bottom arm, as well as the rear mounts, and then remove the two nuts that hold the front of the sub frame to the chassis legs. Ease the sub frame down until it releases from the front locating studs. Once free, it can then be pushed forward and secured if required. We used a large strap to retain the forward position, ensuring good access to the gearbox.

Disconnect the two gear change cables by releasing from the ball joints and slide the outer cable sideways out of the mounting bracket. Disconnect the reverse light switch multiplug, clamp the flexible hydraulic clutch pipe and then release it from the slave cylinder connection (see below).


Remove the starter motor fixing bolts and earth strap and ease the starter motor away from the gearbox. It can then remain in this position. Support the gearbox with the transmission jack and place a thin support block inbetween the engine sump and cross member. Now disconnect the engine speed sensor at the top of the bell housing and remove the bell housing bolts. The gearbox can now be eased back from the engine and removed from the vehicle.

With the gearbox removed, a visual inspection of the clutch was carried out and wear was evident as the small adjuster ring springs were fully extended (see below) and contact marks were visible on the cover limit stop.


Remove the clutch assembly. At this point, the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) can be checked for wear using the LuK DMF Checkpoint App (see below) and a special DMF tool (400 0080 10), but as we were replacing the DMF on the customer’s request, the check was not required and no wear was evident.


Check the rear main oil seal for any wear or leaks, and inspect the spigot bearing for excess play or wear and lightly lubricate. It is good practice to clean/de-grease the rear of the engine and the gearbox bell housing. Remove the release bearing, check for any wear on the input shaft sleeve, pivot points and release arm. Lightly smear the input shaft splines with high melting point grease and mount the new clutch plate on the splines to confirm correct fitment. Remove the clutch plate as well as any excess grease and fit the new release bearing in the correct location.

This is a good point to flush out the old contaminated clutch fluid by placing a drainer under the clutch pipe and flushing the system through. Fit the new flywheel. This will only fit in one position as it has a location dowel. Replace the flywheel bolts as per the REPXPERT repair instructions and follow the torque sequence, then mount the new Self-Adjusting Clutch assembly using the LuK universal mounting tool (400 0237 10) (see below).


Check that the clutch plate is positioned correctly with the wording ‘Getriebeseite’ or ‘Gearbox Side’ facing the gearbox, and check the torque aligns with the manufacturer’s specification.

Check the bell housing dowels are installed in the engine, install the gearbox and refit components in reverse order of removal and bleed the clutch. When bleeding the clutch hydraulic system, connect a bleed bottle to the bleed nipple via a hose and open the bleed nipple. This system is gravity bled, and ensures the clutch master cylinder does not run dry. Once the battery has been connected, enter the radio security code and set the clock, road test the vehicle and confirm a successful repair.

How to Fit a Clutch on a Vauxhall Corsa

A full clutch replacement guide for a Vauxhall Corsa 1.2 Petrol (Z12XEP) from the experts at Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket. 

The Vauxhall/Opal Corsa  (also known as the Corsa B), launched in the UK in 1993, and is still proving to be a familiar sight on today’s roads. Available with five different engine variations and a range of trim options, it became one of the UK’s most popular ‘Superminis’.

The vehicle that the LuK technicians will be looking at in this article is a 2007 model with a 1.2 (Z12XEP) petrol engine. The clutch replacement time is listed as 3.9 hours and the clutch kit to be fitted is LuK reference 620309033. The special tools to be used during the repair are an engine support beam, a transmission jack and a clutch disc alignment tool.

Before starting, make sure you have the locking wheel nut to hand if the vehicle has alloy wheels. Disconnect the battery before any work is started, then completely remove the battery and battery housing to expose the top of the gearbox. Before raising the vehicle, we first have to remove the retaining clip that holds the hydraulic connector pipe into the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) and then disconnect and clamp off the flexible pipe (see below), stowing it securely out of the way so it does not impede the removal of the gearbox later. Disconnect the reverse light plug and keep safe.

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Remove the upper bell housing bolts, then disconnect the gear link arm by removing the plastic universal pin and two retaining clips (see below).

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Make sure the gear link arm is stowed securely out of the way. Install the engine support beam before removing the top gearbox mount and also the bracket from the gearbox.

Raise the vehicle to waist height then remove both front wheels and the nearside wheel arch liner, then unbolt and disconnect both drive shafts and separate from the wheel hub assembly. Unbolt and split the bottom ball joints on both sides. Drain the transmission oil by removing the sump pan from the gearbox. Remove the torque support and bracket (see below).

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Normally, the subframe would need to be removed completely to aid gearbox removal, but it is possible to just loosen the subframe and lower it slightly, which is what has been done here. We have then raised the vehicle again, but only to lower the gearbox and engine slightly to make it easier to remove the gearbox when ready.

With the vehicle raised, use the transmission jack to support the gearbox and then remove the remaining bell housing bolts.

Carefully lower the gearbox with the transmission jack to the floor. Remove the old clutch from the flywheel and check the flywheel for any signs of heat stress or excessive wear.

The CSC can now be removed from the gearbox, which, in this case, has a metal pipe. The plastic retaining clip securing the old CSC (see below) can be removed and discarded as it will not be required when fitting the new CSC. Check the top CSC pipe and you should find a small black seal (see below).

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If it is not visible, then it will be inside the main hydraulic pipe connection (see below) and must be found and discarded, as it can cause problems with the new components if left in place.

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Clean any debris from the bell housing and the first motion shaft, then install the new ‘O’ ring seal in the bell housing before bolting the new CSC into place, making sure to use the correct vehicle manufacturer’s torque values. The new connection adapter now clips into place where the old black retaining clip used to sit, and it will click together into the CSC.

“Normally, the subframe would need to be removed completely to aid gearbox removal, but it is possible to just loosen the subframe and lower it slightly.”

Put a small dab of high melting point grease (not copper-based) on the first motion shaft splines and make sure the new driven plate slides freely back and forth. This not only spreads the grease evenly but also confirms that you have the correct kit. Wipe any excess grease from the shaft and driven plate hub, then use a universal alignment tool to check that the driven plate is the correct way around (note ‘Getriebeseite’ is German for ‘Gearbox Side’). The clutch can then be bolted to the flywheel evenly and sequentially.

Make sure that no dowels have become dislodged or damaged, replacing any that have been. Install the gearbox and make sure that the bolts are secured and all mountings are refitted before removing the supporting transmission jacks. Refitting the rest of the components is the reverse of the removal, and we also advise that the hydraulic system is flushed and refilled with clean fluid.

How to fit a clutch on a Land Rover Freelander

Full clutch replacement guide for a TD4 2.0 4×4 model Land Rover Freelander from the experts at Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket.

Land Rover launched the Freelander in 1997 with four engine variants – 1.8, 2.0 and 2.5 V6 petrol, as well as a 2.0 diesel, with either manual or automatic transmission. It was released as a compact SUV, with production running until 2014, before the launch of the Freelander 2 in 2006 with improved ground clearance and better off- road capabilities.

For the vehicle featured in this month’s clinic the initial fault reported was that the vehicle was difficult to get into gear and the biting point on the pedal was very low. Luckily the problem was easy to diagnose: when opening the bonnet the distinctive smell of burnt clutch was apparent and, following further questions to the customer, it was revealed that the vehicle had been used for heavy towing on the previous day.

Getting started

The ideal choice of workshop equipment required for this repair is a two-post ramp, an engine support and a transmission jack.

When checking the vehicle in, always make sure the locking wheel bolt key is available and remember that the radio code will require inputting on completion.

With the vehicle on the ramp (but not raised), starting in the engine bay, disconnect and remove the battery and the battery carrier, then remove the inlet pipes and ducting (see below).

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We can now gain access to the top bell housing bolts and the starter motor bolts.

Now disconnect the clutch pipe close to the gearbox by pushing in the nylon release clip at the connection. Slacken the N/S wheel bolts, raise the vehicle to waist height and then remove the N/S wheel, before raising the vehicle to full height and removing the front under trays and framework (see below).

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We now need to remove the centre section of the front sub-frame – also known as “the table”. This is done by disconnecting the front wishbones from the centre sub-frame, disconnecting the anti-roll bar links, disconnecting the engine stabiliser, supporting the centre sub-frame, then removing the two sub-frame mounting bolts and centre sub-frame (see below).

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Drain the oil from the gearbox and the transfer box (Intermediate Reduction Drive unit) and, when the oil has drained, the drive shafts can be snapped out of the gearbox and IRD unit and removed by pulling outwards on the bottom wishbones. At this point we can tie back the N/S wishbone and driveshaft to give more room for the gearbox removal.

Remove the bolts from the front prop shaft joint and disconnect the prop shaft from the IRD and secure (see below).

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We’re now in a position to remove the IRD unit, and then the engine stabiliser mounting from the engine and the additional support bracket above. Now disconnect the coolant pipes and breather from the IRD unit, remove the four bolts that hold the IRD unit to the gearbox and then remove the IRD unit and store in a safe area (see below).

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Disconnect the two ball joints from the gear linkage on the gearbox and remove the multi-plugs from the reverse light switch and speedo unit. Now remove the remaining bell housing bolts, leaving two accessible bolts to hold the gearbox, support the engine and then lower the vehicle to remove the gearbox mounting from the top of the gearbox. Raise the vehicle and remove the final two bell housing bolts, before lowering the engine slightly to allow more room. You can now remove the gearbox from the dowels and rotate the gearbox 90° clockwise, which should then give you enough clearance to remove the gearbox completely (see below).

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Remove the clutch assembly (in this instance over-heating was evident) and then test the dual mass flywheel with the correct tool for excess free play and rock (see below).

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In this example we replaced the DMF as the customer had requested for this to be done. Remove the concentric slave cylinder assembly from the bell housing and clean the bell housing, before fitting the new concentric slave cylinder assembly to the gearbox; the new concentric cylinder is factory pre-filled and therefore should not require bleeding when the gearbox is installed.

Check the clutch plate fits the splines on the gearbox input shaft. This is now an ideal time to lubricate the gearbox input shaft and clutch splines with high melting point grease, wiping off any excess after the clutch plate has been checked on the splines and then replacing the clutch using a clutch alignment tool (see below).

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Before installing the gearbox, check that the alignment dowels are located correctly and, once checked, we’re now ready to install the gearbox. Install the gearbox in reverse order of removal, not forgetting that the gearbox and IRD unit have to be re-filled with the correct specifications and quantities of oil. Now reconnect the clutch pipe, which shouldn’t require bleeding as the system is pre-filled.

Once the vehicle is up and running, enter the radio code and carry out a road test to check the clutch, reverse lights and speedometer for correct operation.

How to Fit a Clutch on an Audi A4

A full clutch replacement guide for a 2.0 TDI model from Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket UK.

Audi released the 8K chassis A4 in 2007. Included in this model were some changes to the clutch and transmission system with the wheel base increased, but not the overall length of the car.

This was achieved by moving the front running gear forwards and also moving the front differential 152mm from behind the clutch assembly to the side of the clutch assembly and then using a flange shaft that passes through the drive plate/flywheel assembly to connect the drive from the differential to the N/S/F drive shaft (see below).


The new configuration Audi – called Modular Longitudinal Platform (MLP) – is used on all current Audis with a longitudinal engine and gearbox configuration. On initial inspection, a clutch replacement can look like a complicated repair, but with a little know- how this will prove to be an ideal job for any independent garage.

Biting point

The customer’s concern was that the clutch pedal’s biting point was very high. After a short test confirmed this a clutch replacement was advised and the customer also requested that the dual mass flywheel (DMF) was replaced. The workshop equipment required for the repair is a two-post ramp, transmission jack and a universal clutch alignment tool.

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, disconnect the battery located in the boot under the spare wheel – don’t close the boot, however, as this has an electric release system. You should also make sure the steering lock has actuated as you have to disconnect the steering column before raising the vehicle and removing the engine and gearbox undertrays (see below).


Remove the transmission tunnel bracing frame, taking care to disconnect the pipe bracket and heat shield, then remove the pinch bolt from the steering column universal joint/steering rack, the exhaust front pipe bracket and also the small o/s heat shield that is fixed to the chassis leg and front sub-frame.

Disconnect the o/s driveshaft from the gearbox flange by removing the six bolts, then remove the inner driveshaft joint heat shield from the gearbox, held by three Allen bolts. Now disconnect the n/s driveshaft from the gearbox flange and remove the small n/s heat shield from the chassis leg and sub- frame (see below).


Remove the three bolts from the driveshaft/flange shaft retaining plate and ease the flange shaft out 25mm so it’s ready for removal. Disconnect the electrical multi-plug from the steering rack, remove the four nuts that hold the anti-roll bar clamps to the sub-frame and allow the anti-roll bar to hang down (see below).


Remove the two bolts that mount the steering rack to the front sub-frame, ease the steering rack from the sub-frame and allow it to hang – this gives you access to the starter motor bolts. Slacken the exhaust sleeve that connects the intermediate pipe to the rear exhaust section and part the exhaust, allowing the intermediate section to hang down. Support the back of the gearbox with a transmission jack and remove the rear gearbox mounting. Now remove the clutch slave cylinder bolt and ease out the slave cylinder before stowing.

Remove the three bolts from the front engine mount to allow a little tilt on the engine to aid gearbox removal. Tilt the gearbox down for access to the top of the gearbox. Disconnect the gear linkage and stabiliser bar and also the two electrical multi-plugs from the gearbox. There is a third multi-plug that is located in a bracket on the top of the gearbox which requires the plug and wiring to be removed from the bracket and the multi-plug to be disconnected.

Remove the black plastic blanking plate located at the bottom of the bell housing to gain access and then remove the three flywheel-to-drive-plate bolts (see below).


Start to remove the bell housing bolts, leaving a couple of accessible bolts until the gearbox is supported and ready for removal; good practice is to store the bolts in the position/pattern of removal.

The bell housing bolts have a twice torque life so always mark the heads of the bolts with a centre punch to indicate that they’ve been torqued for a second time and will require replacement if removed again. Also note that the top starter motor bolt has a spacer located between the bell housing and the starter motor.

Position the gearbox jack ready for gearbox removal, and secure the gearbox to the transmission jack (see below).


Now remove the final bell housing bolts and ease the gearbox back. When the gearbox is free from the engine remove the flange shaft from the gearbox by sliding it out between the chassis leg and front sub-frame towards the n/s wheel. Remove the driveshaft and store.

Carefully remove the gearbox from the vehicle and lower. Now take the black handle tool in the clutch kit and secure it to the flywheel (see below) before carefully removing the heavy flywheel and clutch assembly. The release bearing, arm and sleeve can now also be removed. Check for any wear on the release arm pivot points and replace if required.


Using high melting point grease, lightly lubricate the pivot points on the release arm and replace the input shaft sleeve and release bearing. Lightly lubricate the input shaft splines and check the clutch plate fits the splines, wiping off any excess grease.

Assemble the new clutch and DMF using a clutch alignment tool, ensuring that the driven plate is fitted correctly. When bolting the clutch pressure plate to the DMF tighten the bolts evenly and sequentially. Before installing the clutch and flywheel assembly to the gearbox, check that the three small yellow springs for the self-adjusting clutch are still compressed. Now support the clutch and flywheel using the tool from the clutch kit (see below).


Check that the dowels are still located in the engine and then install the gearbox, remembering to insert the flange shaft before locating the gearbox on the engine. With the gearbox and flywheel located, remove the clutch/flywheel support tool, refit the accessible bell housing bolts and tighten. The transmission jack can be removed and used to support the rear of the gearbox and the remaining bell housing bolts installed. Rotate the flywheel to align the flywheel to the drive plate holes, insert the new bolts supplied and tighten/torque. Refit all other items in reverse order of removal.