Category Archives: Audi

How to: Replace the Clutch on an Audi A1

How to: Replace the Clutch on an Audi A1

This month, the resident expert Alistair Mason replaced the clutch on a 2016 Audi A1, fitted with a 1.6L TDI engine that had covered more than 85,000 miles.

Audi launched the A1 into the UK market back in November 2010, and sales have reached close to 200,000. It is built on Volkswagen’s PQ25 platform, which is also used for the Volkswagen Polo and Seat Ibiza.

Being Audi’s popular Supermini, with a repair time of just five hours and a requirement for only minimal workshop equipment – a two-post vehicle lift, engine support, transmission jack, clutch alignment tool and locking wheel bolt key – this repair is a good one for an independent workshop.

Step-by-step procedure

First, place the vehicle on the lift, open the bonnet and boot, and disconnect the negative lead (see below) from the battery in the boot well, but do not close the boot whilst the battery is disconnected. Before proceeding to the engine bay, slacken the front locking wheel bolts and both front hub nuts.

In the engine bay, remove the plastic engine cover and air box assembly (see below), then disconnect the battery connection to the air box carrier, and then remove the carrier itself. That provides good access to the top of the gearbox and bell housing area.

Disconnect the gear change cables, and remove the clutch slave cylinder, leaving the hydraulic pipe connected. Detach the starter motor cable and unscrew the top starter motor bolt, before disconnecting the reverse light switch multiplug and removing the top bell housing bolts.

Next, raise the vehicle lift to gain access to the underside and slacken the inner driveshaft joint bolts, then lower the lift to waist height and remove the front wheels and hub nuts. In addition, remove the N/S plastic wheel arch liner to give better access to the gearbox.

Raise the vehicle lift once more and unscrew both bottom ball joints. The outer driveshaft joints can then be detached from the hub assemblies by pushing the hub assemblies outwards, before undoing the inner driveshaft joint bolts, removing the heat shield for the O/S driveshaft and driveshafts themselves.

To aid the removal of the gearbox, it is best practice to remove the O/S driveshaft flange from the gearbox that is retained with an Allen bolt in the centre of the flange (see below).


Once removed, unscrew the lower starter motor bolt, remove the starter motor and disconnect the gear recognition multiplug (see below).

Next, detach the lower bell housing bolts, leaving two easily accessible bolts to support the gearbox, before removing the bottom pendulum gearbox mount. Alistair used two transmission jacks to support the engine and gearbox respectively, before using a ladder to gain access to the engine bay and remove the gearbox mounting bolts.

Now, lower the gearbox and engine slightly, removing the gearbox mounting from the gearbox accessed from the N/S wheel arch (see below). Finally, undo the last of the bell housing bolts and ease the gearbox away from the engine. Once clear, lower the transmission jack holding the gearbox and move it to a safe area.

Clutch replacement

Remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel and inspect the back of the engine for any leaks, rectifying if required. Clean the back of the engine and flywheel with brake and clutch dust cleaner, and as a solid flywheel is fitted, remove the glaze from the flywheel face using an Emory cloth and clean again with brake and clutch dust cleaner.

Remove the release bearing from the gearbox and the release arm, closely inspect it for any wear, along with pivot point and release bearing guide tube (see below), replacing if required, and clean the bell housing area with brake and clutch dust cleaner.

Fit the release arm and bearing. If plastic/nylon runs on metal, no lubrication is required; if metal runs on metal, lubrication is required and a light smear of high melting point grease is best practice.

Apply another light smear of high melting point grease to the gearbox input shaft splines, before mounting the new clutch plate onto them. This will confirm the clutch plate is the correct fit, and it will also evenly distribute the lubrication on the input shaft. Remove the clutch plate and wipe any excess grease.

Ensure the clutch plate faces the correct component (see below), and using a universal clutch alignment tool, align it with the clutch pressure plate and secure.


Mount the clutch assembly onto the flywheel (see below), before inserting, tightening and torquing all clutch bolts evenly and sequentially. Once torqued, remove the clutch alignment tool.

Before refitting the gearbox, ensure all wiring etc. is clear of the bell housing area, so as not to get trapped, while also checking the gearbox alignment dowels are fitted to the engine and that the release mechanism in the gearbox is fitted and functioning correctly.

Gearbox replacement

Place the gearbox on the transmission jack, bring it close to the engine and ease into position, ensuring it locates on the alignment dowels. When in position, fit two easily- accessible bell housing bolts and tighten, refit all other components in reverse order of removal and torque all bolts to the manufacturer’s specification. After the battery lead has been reconnected, reset all electrical consumers.

It is worth nothing that new hub nuts will be required, if the locking tabs break off during removal. Finally, as always, carry out a road test to ensure a quality repair.


How to Fit a Clutch on an Audi A4

A full clutch replacement guide for a 2.0 TDI model from Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket UK.

Audi released the 8K chassis A4 in 2007. Included in this model were some changes to the clutch and transmission system with the wheel base increased, but not the overall length of the car.

This was achieved by moving the front running gear forwards and also moving the front differential 152mm from behind the clutch assembly to the side of the clutch assembly and then using a flange shaft that passes through the drive plate/flywheel assembly to connect the drive from the differential to the N/S/F drive shaft (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-1-300x200

The new configuration Audi – called Modular Longitudinal Platform (MLP) – is used on all current Audis with a longitudinal engine and gearbox configuration. On initial inspection, a clutch replacement can look like a complicated repair, but with a little know- how this will prove to be an ideal job for any independent garage.

Biting point

The customer’s concern was that the clutch pedal’s biting point was very high. After a short test confirmed this a clutch replacement was advised and the customer also requested that the dual mass flywheel (DMF) was replaced. The workshop equipment required for the repair is a two-post ramp, transmission jack and a universal clutch alignment tool.

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, disconnect the battery located in the boot under the spare wheel – don’t close the boot, however, as this has an electric release system. You should also make sure the steering lock has actuated as you have to disconnect the steering column before raising the vehicle and removing the engine and gearbox undertrays (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-2-300x200

Remove the transmission tunnel bracing frame, taking care to disconnect the pipe bracket and heat shield, then remove the pinch bolt from the steering column universal joint/steering rack, the exhaust front pipe bracket and also the small o/s heat shield that is fixed to the chassis leg and front sub-frame.

Disconnect the o/s driveshaft from the gearbox flange by removing the six bolts, then remove the inner driveshaft joint heat shield from the gearbox, held by three Allen bolts. Now disconnect the n/s driveshaft from the gearbox flange and remove the small n/s heat shield from the chassis leg and sub- frame (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-3-300x200

Remove the three bolts from the driveshaft/flange shaft retaining plate and ease the flange shaft out 25mm so it’s ready for removal. Disconnect the electrical multi-plug from the steering rack, remove the four nuts that hold the anti-roll bar clamps to the sub-frame and allow the anti-roll bar to hang down (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-4-300x200

Remove the two bolts that mount the steering rack to the front sub-frame, ease the steering rack from the sub-frame and allow it to hang – this gives you access to the starter motor bolts. Slacken the exhaust sleeve that connects the intermediate pipe to the rear exhaust section and part the exhaust, allowing the intermediate section to hang down. Support the back of the gearbox with a transmission jack and remove the rear gearbox mounting. Now remove the clutch slave cylinder bolt and ease out the slave cylinder before stowing.

Remove the three bolts from the front engine mount to allow a little tilt on the engine to aid gearbox removal. Tilt the gearbox down for access to the top of the gearbox. Disconnect the gear linkage and stabiliser bar and also the two electrical multi-plugs from the gearbox. There is a third multi-plug that is located in a bracket on the top of the gearbox which requires the plug and wiring to be removed from the bracket and the multi-plug to be disconnected.

Remove the black plastic blanking plate located at the bottom of the bell housing to gain access and then remove the three flywheel-to-drive-plate bolts (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-5-300x200

Start to remove the bell housing bolts, leaving a couple of accessible bolts until the gearbox is supported and ready for removal; good practice is to store the bolts in the position/pattern of removal.

The bell housing bolts have a twice torque life so always mark the heads of the bolts with a centre punch to indicate that they’ve been torqued for a second time and will require replacement if removed again. Also note that the top starter motor bolt has a spacer located between the bell housing and the starter motor.

Position the gearbox jack ready for gearbox removal, and secure the gearbox to the transmission jack (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-6-300x200

Now remove the final bell housing bolts and ease the gearbox back. When the gearbox is free from the engine remove the flange shaft from the gearbox by sliding it out between the chassis leg and front sub-frame towards the n/s wheel. Remove the driveshaft and store.

Carefully remove the gearbox from the vehicle and lower. Now take the black handle tool in the clutch kit and secure it to the flywheel (see below) before carefully removing the heavy flywheel and clutch assembly. The release bearing, arm and sleeve can now also be removed. Check for any wear on the release arm pivot points and replace if required.

clutch-clinic-fig-7-300x200

Using high melting point grease, lightly lubricate the pivot points on the release arm and replace the input shaft sleeve and release bearing. Lightly lubricate the input shaft splines and check the clutch plate fits the splines, wiping off any excess grease.

Assemble the new clutch and DMF using a clutch alignment tool, ensuring that the driven plate is fitted correctly. When bolting the clutch pressure plate to the DMF tighten the bolts evenly and sequentially. Before installing the clutch and flywheel assembly to the gearbox, check that the three small yellow springs for the self-adjusting clutch are still compressed. Now support the clutch and flywheel using the tool from the clutch kit (see below).

clutch-clinic-fig-8-300x200

Check that the dowels are still located in the engine and then install the gearbox, remembering to insert the flange shaft before locating the gearbox on the engine. With the gearbox and flywheel located, remove the clutch/flywheel support tool, refit the accessible bell housing bolts and tighten. The transmission jack can be removed and used to support the rear of the gearbox and the remaining bell housing bolts installed. Rotate the flywheel to align the flywheel to the drive plate holes, insert the new bolts supplied and tighten/torque. Refit all other items in reverse order of removal.

Electronic Parking Brake – Audi A6

Electronic Parking Brake – Audi A6

Audi & Volkswagen Timing Belt Drive Service Information – A Technical Tip from Gates

Audi and Volkswagen Service Information 

Due to durability issues with the original OE synchronous drive system, the manufacturer has reengineered the drive to achieve a more reliable setup that provides worry free performance. Refitting the synchronous drive with the reengineered component is the recommended service procedure for these vehicles. Gates Timing Component Kits and Timing Component Kits with Water Pump offer the reengineered parts necessary to do the complete job, including the redesigned hydraulic strut tensioner (TCK317 + TCKWP317).

Please be aware that the updated drive system design requires a different timing belt. Those vehicles equipped with the old design will have a 152 tooth timing belt (T291). The updated design makes use of a 153 tooth belt (T317). This 153 tooth belt combined with the components contained in a Gates timing component kit will set the drive in the current OE approved configuration.

The OE system that is no longer available from the manufacturer is illustrated in Fig #1. The updated system, contained in Gates TCK317 and TCKWP317, which includes the redesigned hydraulic actuator (Gates T43066), tensioning roller (Gates T43065) and 153 Tooth timing belt (Gates T317) is illustrated in FIG #2.

screen-shot-2016-11-02-at-15-19-53Please note if you are removing a system that has been updated, there could be a difference in the spacer that is included with the pulley. The one that is included in the TCK317 kit has a 6mm thick spacer; the other which is only available from the OE is 3mm thick. These are not interchangeable on the drive. Incorrect distance will cause premature belt and drive system failure.

Always double check the component you are removing. You may encounter a difference in spacer thickness of the tensioner pulley. If the spacer currently on the vehicle is 3mm, then it will need to be obtained from the OE. If the spacer is 6mm it will be supplied in the Gates TCK317 or TCKWP317. This will guarantee proper system alignment.

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How to fit a clutch on an Audi A3

A clutch fitment guide for a 2008 Audi A3 1.9 TDI; Clutch and DMF replacement tips.
Audi launched the A3 in 1996, with the second generation released in 2003 and the new model A3 following in 2012. Sharing the same platform as the Audi TT, VW Golf, Caddy and Touran, Seat Leon, Toledo and Skoda Octavia, the A3 has three model styles (three door, five door and Cabriolet) and is available in two wheel drive or four wheel drive (Quattro) variants.

This month’s clinic features a 2008 Audi A3 1.9 TDI (three door, two wheel drive) which had covered over 129,000 miles and was booked in because the owner had noticed ‘judder’ when driving. Because this symptom was more noticeable when using the clutch, the suspicion before diagnosis was that there may be a fault with the flywheel.

Recommended fitting time: 3.7 Hours Parts fitted: 415025010 (DMF); 411013310 (Flywheel bolts); 623309400 (Clutch kit)

Special Equipment
The special workshop equipment we used for this repair was a two-post ramp, engine support beam, transmission jack, Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) test kit and a Self-Adjusting Clutch (SAC) installation kit.

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, locate the locking wheel bolt key and slacken the N/S/F wheel. Then slacken the N/S/F hub bolt, raise the bonnet, disconnect and remove the battery, battery housing and battery tray. The next step is to disconnect the air mass meter and remove the air filter assembly and hose to the inlet manifold – this will give you good access to the top of the gearbox.

Remove the gear linkage assembly by releasing the two “C” clips and removing the three bolts. Disconnect the multi-plug for the reverse light switch, then remove the two bolts that retain the slave cylinder. The hydraulic pipe can then be unclipped and swivelled up to give better access to the bolts. Remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing and stow the gear linkage and slave cylinder against the bulkhead and secure, if required.

At this point the top bell housing bolts can be removed with the engine earth connected to the one. Disconnect the starter motor wiring and then the top starter motor bolt. Now fit an engine beam to support the engine and gearbox and, once fitted, the top gearbox mounting can be removed. Now raise the vehicle, remove the N/S/F wheel, remove the N/S driveshaft flange bolts and the hub bolt. The N/S driveshaft can now be removed at the gearbox end and then removed from the hub. Remove the bolts from the O/S driveshaft inner joint flange and disconnect from the gearbox. We can now remove the O/S drive flange from the gearbox by removing the Allen bolt from the centre of the flange to aid gearbox removal.

Remove the lower gearbox mounting/stabiliser unit from the gearbox and front sub-frame, then remove the bottom starter motor bolt and the starter motor. Lower the engine/gearbox on the engine beam to gain some clearance for gearbox removal and, supporting the gearbox with a transmission jack, remove the remaining bell housing bolts and then the gearbox with the transmission jack.

Service life
With the gearbox removed the cause of the judder was now visible – the DMF hadn’t returned to its rest position, indicating that it had reached the end of its service life.

As a result, the DMF tester kit was now not required. Removing the clutch assembly showed signs of normal wear that would be expected at this vehicle’s mileage. We held the primary mass of the flywheel by the starter ring gear and rotated the secondary mass back to the neutral position with a two pin wrench. The bolts were now visible for removal. After removing the flywheel we carried out a visual inspection of the rear main oil seal and this showed no signs of leakage. We then mounted the new flywheel. Using Schaeffler’s DMF Checkpoint App, the tightening torque settings could easily be obtained and the flywheel torqued.

fig-3ps-300x200

Before fitting the clutch, confirm the clutch plate fits the splines of the gearbox input shaft. Mount the new Self-Adjusting Clutch using Schaeffler’s special tool (400 0237 10), combining the clutch alignment tool to eliminate any rotation of the adjuster ring and to ensure the clutch pressure plate is installed evenly, thus removing the risk of any clutch judder.

fig-4-ps-300x200

With the clutch installed, ensure the three yellow adjuster ring springs are still compressed, confirming the adjuster ring has not de-adjusted.

fig-5-ps-300x200

Clean the bell housing of the gearbox, replace the release bearing and ensure that there is no wear to the clutch release fork and gearbox snout. Then lubricate the pivot points that are metal-to-metal with a smear of high melting point grease. Ensure the dowels are located properly on the engine and that the sandwich plate is positioned correctly.

Refit the gearbox and secure with the bell housing bolts. At this point you can check if there is a small amount of ‘freeplay’ on the clutch fork by pressing it with your finger to confirm correct installation. Refit all components in the reverse order and torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications, remembering to reset electrical items because the battery has been disconnected.

When starting the car, the ABS, ESP and electric steering warning lights may be illuminated so you should turn the steering from lock-to-lock to reset the steering system. Finally, a short test drive will reset the ABS and ESP systems so no warning lights are illuminated.

VW Golf lV, Bora, Jetta IV; AUDI A3, SEAT Leon, Toledo; SKODA Octavia Front Suspension

VW Golf lV, Bora, Jetta IV; AUDI A3, SEAT Leon, Toledo; SKODA Octavia Front Suspension

Fitting video showing correct fitment of shock absorbers and coil springs to the front of:
Audi A3 2WD (09.96-05.03)
Seat Leon (11.99-06.06)
Seat Toledo II (04.99-05.06)
Volkswagen Golf IV 2WD, Variant (08.97-06.06)
Volkswagen Bora, Variant (10.98-09.05)
Volkswagen Jetta IV (10.98-09.05)
Skoda Octavia, Combi (09.96-06.04)

AUDI, SEAT, SKODA, VW – Front Suspension

AUDI, SEAT, SKODA, VW – Front Suspension

Video to show correct fitment of shock absorbers to FRONT of:

AUDI A3/A3 Sportback (05.03-)
SEAT Leon II (05.05-)
Alhambra II (06.10-);
Altea/Altea XL (03.04-)
Toledo III (04.04-05.09)

Changing the front discs and pads on an Audi A6 – Part 2

Changing the front discs and pads on an Audi A6 – Part 2

Changing the front discs and pads on an Audi A6 – Part 1

Changing the front discs and pads on an Audi A6 – Part 1

What is DSG clutch technology?

Since 2008, many new VAG models have been equipped with the new seven-speed dual clutch gearbox (DSG) with an LuK dry double clutch (2CT) system, or – since 2004 – a six-speed wet clutch version which also features an LuK dual mass flywheel (DMF). You will find the six-speed version mostly fitted to larger, high powered vehicles, such as the Passat CC, whilst the seven-speed is being fitted to the ever more popular range of smaller vehicles throughout the range, such as the Polo and Golf.

Best of both worlds
These high-tech state-of-the-art transmissions are designed to incorporate the best advantages of both automatic and manual gearboxes. Automatic transmissions are able to offer superb driving comfort thanks to an automated gear shift and uninterrupted traction, whilst manual transmissions are sporty, fun and economical. A twin clutch system therefore combines the comfort of an automatic with the agility of a manual, along with incredibly smooth and fast gearshifts.

Technically, a DSG is an automated shift gearbox featuring two gear sets which operate independently of each other, thereby enabling fully automatic gear change without traction interruption. There is no clutch pedal and the conventional gear lever has been replaced with a lever with integrated Tiptronic function.

The image below shows a cutaway shot of an LuK Dry Double Clutch

As gear changes are fully computer controlled, it is much more difficult for poor or aggressive drivers to cause damage or premature wear to the system, which should help to optimise the expected service life of the clutch and gearbox components. Like conventional singledisc clutches, the dry double clutch of the seven-speed DSG is also located in the gearbox housing.

There are no drag losses as it is not oilimmersed, increasing engine and fuel efficiency whilst also making repairs less complex. From a technician’s point of view, the gearbox and clutch electronics (mechatronics) are diagnosable, so the system can be read using suitable diagnostic equipment. A full system reset – which puts the mechatronics unit into ‘Learn Mode’ – is required after every clutch replacement, again a simple function as long as you are using the correct equipment.

Since the clutch fitted to the Volkswagen six-speed DSG is oil-immersed (known as a wet clutch) it tends to wear at a much slower rate than equivalent dry clutches. However, there is the possibility that the DMF could wear and require replacement, especially as this transmission has been fitted to Volkswagen Group vehicles for more than 10 years. Fortunately, in a twin clutch transmission – and for the Volkswagen Group DSG in particular – this can be a much simpler task than for a conventional system, as the clutch is not bolted directly to the DMF.

No special tooling or training should be required for experienced clutch mechanics to be able to manage a twin clutch DMF replacement, and as the original equipment manufacturer of the dual mass flywheel for the six-speed Volkswagen DSG, LuK is on hand to supply the replacement DMF unit to the aftermarket as required.

The LuK Dry Double Clutch in-situ

The LuK designed and manufactured seven-speed dry clutch system also features a DMF that is not directly bolted to the flywheel and is just as simple to replace when worn. LuK engineers have also been investigating the potential for a complete replacement twin clutch kit solution for the UK aftermarket.

A range of original equipment components, specific tools and bespoke training programmes have already been designed and developed, and LuK is currently assessing the size of the opportunity for independents to offer the owners of vehicles coming out of the warranty period a viable aftermarket option when it comes to buying a replacement twin-clutch.

Due to its success with the DSG, the Volkswagen Group has already announced that more than 40% of the cars they produce will be fitted with a dual clutch system by 2012, and this has not gone unnoticed in the automotive world. With the improved fuel economy and lowered emission levels it can help provide, many other vehicle manufacturers are now beginning to specify twin clutch transmission systems to help keep in line with ever more stringent Government legislation.

Vehicle producers that are currently using twin clutch systems, or who are developing new versions to use in their range include: Audi, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Mercedes-Benz, Renault, Seat and Skoda. LuK, as ever, will be at the forefront of this rapidly growing market, thanks to its ongoing commitment to innovation, technology and quality.

The benefits of a dual clutch system

• Combines the ease of an automatic transmission with the responsiveness of a manual gearbox
• Similar to an automatic transmission, but with excellent fuel efficiency
• No power interruption during torque transfer
• Significant reduction in CO2 emissions